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Variator Deregulation

These are the tools needed for this modification:
10mm Socket and Ratchet
12mm Socket
17mm Socket
3" Ratchet extension
Screwdriver with a larger than normal phillips bit
A cool head and a little patience

Removal:
First start with removing the kick start lever by removing the bolt opposite the lever [Figure 1]. This is a 10mm bolt (use a socket, do not use a screwdriver as you will end up striping the head of the screw). You have to take it all the way out before you can slide the lever off away from the belt housing. Remove the two airbox screws [Figure 4]. Then remove the two screws that hold the plastic casing on the belt housing (when removing all these screws make sure that you have the correct size screwdriver bit, it is a little larger than what would be considered a normal size, these screws have a little torque on them and using the wrong size will strip the head). After you remove the plastic cover you will see the aluminum belt housing cover. There are 11 screws around this casing. I usually use a cordless drill with a screwdriver attachment to remove these quickly but it is not necessary. Arrange all the screws in an oval in relation to where they belong on the casing, that way they will all match up when we go to reassemble. Note that the silver screw is located on the top where the ground wire is attached to the belt housing. All the screws are the same diameter but there are two different lengths [Figure 5a]. After removing all the screws (don't forget the one in the middle), you can then remove the aluminum cover. This is a little tricky. It may have a good seal on the case so you may have to tap it with your fist or hand on the top and bottom and front and back, to break the seal. After you have it loosened up a bit it should just pull straight off, be careful not to break the gasket, I don't know how much this costs, but the closer to free we can get this project the better. The only interference is where the centerstand retraction spring hooks onto the bottom of the casing and the airbox may interfere a little, just pull it away towards the front of the scooter to get it out of the way. It is not necessary to remove the spring just pull off the cover. It may hit the spring but it should still be easy to pull off the cover.

Now that you have the aluminum cover off you will be able to see the belt and the front and rear pulleys. The front pulley is called the multivar or variator. This is where the governor is. The rear pulley is where the clutch is and we don't have to mess with that for this job. You will need an impact wrench or large channel locks for front pulley removal. You can pick up some cheap channel locks for about $10. Secure the front pulley (the one with the fins) with the channel locks and then use a 17mm socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the nut that secures the pulley [Figure 7]. Careful with the pulley as the fins break easliy (I know by expirence). Once the nut is removed you can now pull the washers and kick-start cog off the shaft. Keep the washers and nut in the correct order so you can put them back on correctly [Figure 8]. Now remove the pulley half (the one with the fins that naturally comes off next - be careful of a little washer that is on the shaft just on the other side of the pulley half, normally this will stay put and you will not need to worry about it, but just know that it is there - also be careful to keep the back portion of the variator pulley in place or the rollers will come out and you will have to find them and put it back together, this part DOES NOT need to be removed for this process - Thanks Austin). Now you will see a large washer in the middle that is under the belt [Figure 9]. Remove the belt from the shaft then the washer, this is the governor. Replace the belt (if you accidently took the belt all the way off or if it fell off the rear pulley while you were working you will have to pull the pulley apart in the back with your hands and while you are holding them apart slip the belt down with your third hand [or a friend] down into the rear pulley so there is enough slack to fit it up and on to the front shaft) [Figure 11]. Once the belt is back on you can put the finned pulley half back on the front shaft, then the star washer (the one that fits into the finned pulley half), then the flat washer, and finally the nut. Tighten the nut securely using the channel locks and the 17mm socket [Figure 7]. Then replace the aluminium cover (on the cover there is two guides that look like sleeves or spacers, usually they stay in the casing but occasionally they will stay in the cover, if this happens take them out of the cover [they should just pull out with hand force - no tools needed] and place them in the casing, this way you will be able to align the gasket on these guides so that you will be able to place the cover on correctly, if you do not do this you will have a hard time getting the cover and the gasket lined up) [Figure 6]. Another concern that you may encounter when replacing the cover is the belt may dip down and get in between the cover and the casing (especially if you had to pull the clutch open to reseat the belt if it came out), just push the belt up as you put the cover on, it will reset itself when you take off the first time on your scooter [Figure 12]. Once the cover is back on replace all the screws and tighten them down, it is usually helpful to secure the middle screw first then work your way around. Once the cover is secured then place the black plastic cover back on (you may want to clean it out a bit, sometimes sand and dirt can collect inside of this cover). Replace the two black screws that hold the black platsic cover and then the kick-start lever (make sure that you have the lever at the correct angle, this will not affect operation if is only one tooth off one way or the other, it just looks dumb) [Figure 1]. Then replace the bolt for the lever and go! Your scooter should now do about 42-44mph.

 

 

 

 

Still not fast enough? Time for some upgrades!

 


Figure 1


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Figure 10