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Tuning

Stock Applications

Tires:

I would recommend getting new tires for your scooter. The reasons are:
  • Higher center of gravity, which means better handling and more lean ability in cornering
  • The stock tires are so short that your can dent your rim on a driveway
  • There are better tires than the cheap rubber that comes from the factory
  • It is an easy upgrade and most bigger sizes will fit perfectly
  • Your bike will be faster (but the speedo will show slower - bigger tires fool the speedo)


  • I used Michelin S1 tires on my bike. They have a better tread pattern (more like a bullet bike style) and are made of a better rubber. Michelin has a reputation for quality.

    Concerns:
  • None.
  • Oil:

    I would always recommend using fully syntheitic oil. The reasons are:
  • It will increase the life of your motor because it has better lubrication properties
  • You can get it in fragrances (some smell like cologne and strawberries)
  • It burns cleaner, which means less smoke
  • We don't have to rely on the middle east for it


  • Concerns:
  • It costs a little more than fossil oil, but well worth the money, especially if you love your scoot!
  • Derestriction:

    Some people have raised concerns over the jetting after they have derestricted the stock pipe. It was not an issue for me here in Utah, but I am at 4500 feet altitude. The best thing that you can do is to derestrict the pipe, then use a new spark plug and do a plug read. The trick is to measure every level of operation of the carb. This is covered in the carb howto, but here is a brief run down. First run the bike at one quarter throttle for a block, without letting off the gas, hit the kill switch and stop, pull the plug and read it. That will tell you about the primary or pilot jet. Next do half throttle, then full throttle, that will tell you the needle height and secondary jets, respectively. Jets for stock carbs are available at Yamaha,Arreche carbs use the same jets as Mikuni carbs, and are easy to find at your local motocycle shop.
    Perfomance Applications

    Stage One:

    The first stage of performace must include the following: (~47-52mph with improved acceleration)
  • Performance pipe, the Tecnigas Next R
  • After market variator using 16x13mm roller weights
  • 16x13mm roller weights between 3 and 7 grams (Zuma typically uses lighter [<4 gram] rollers)
  • Removed snorkel in the stock airbox (optional, would require a plug read)

    When you change the pipe, the stock variator, which uses smaller rollers is not designed to take the added power and will not work correctly (will spin out fast, keeping RPM's too low and out of the power band).

    Get your Stage One here!

    Concerns:
  • You will have to tune the weights to your riding situation. If you are constantly riding on hills, you will want a lighter weight. If you are on flat most of the time you will want a heavier weight. If you weigh between 170-200 lbs, you will need to go a little lighter.
  • It will be louder than stock
  • I don't rejet here in Utah for this, but you will have to do a plug read (see previous section titled derestriction) to determine the needs in your geographical area.
  • Stage Two:

    The second stage of performace must include the following: (~55mph with unbelieveable acceleration)
  • Included all the parts from stage one
  • 70cc cylinder (Airsal full aluminum recommended)
  • 19mm Carb (I like the Arreche for two reasons: Jets are easy to find since they are the same as Mikuni, and it is easy to change the main jet via a plug at the bottom of the bowl)
  • Unifilter is designed for smaller two-stroke motors, but you can also find small K&N filters they use on motorcylces that will fit with slight modification.

    You must use the bigger carb, or the bike will run too lean and will seize. The airbox is for better flow and improves performance, you could use the stock airbox, but it is not recommended.

    Get your Stage Two kit here!

    Concerns:
  • You have to run fully synthetic oil with this setup
  • Louder than just the pipe change (kinda like a mild chainsaw)
  • You will have to use a manual choke if you plan on riding your scooter in sub freezing temps
  • You may also have to bypass the automatic fuel shutoff valve
  • Kevlar belt recommended
  • Stage Three:

    The third stage of performace includes the following: (~60mph with rocket acceleration)
  • Included all the parts from stage two
  • Polini Speed Clutch
  • Malossi Kevlar drive belt

  • You can use any of these items with out the other. The reeds will increase your top speed while the clutch and belt will give you a faster "hook-up" off the line. The clutches are fully adjustable which is nice for tuning, but I usually don't have to change them.

    Concerns:

  • I can't think of any drawbacks to this stage
  • Stage RACE: The RACE stage of performace includes the following: (Depends on setup and tuning)
  • Included all the parts from stage three
  • Fully balanced race crank
  • Full race cylinder with 12mm diameter rod
  • 21mm carb
  • Tecnigas RS or comparable alternative
  • Race ignition good for 25,000 rpm's

    This scooter will probably break the earth's gravity

    Concerns:
  • The motor is only good for about 20 hours
  • You have to replace the crank (about a five hour job)
  • With the race ignition you can no longer use lights
  • Great for racing, not so great for general street shinanigans