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Stage one install

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Tools needed for TN'G Venice
8mm, 10mm, 18mm, 24mm, Socket and Ratchet
Imapact, Strap, or Channel lock wrench
A cool head and a little patience

Tools needed for Yamaha Vino
10mm, 17mm, 24mm, Socket and Ratchet
Imapact, Strap, or Channel lock wrench
Screwdriver with a larger than normal phillips bit
A cool head and a little patience

Important: Jetting for this kit may or may not be an issue. All of our kits are running around at about 4700 ft above sea level, so stock jetting is more than enough for the stage one, seeing as how it is rich to start out with. We are not responsible for damage due to incorrect jetting. With that said, when you install your kit, you would be smart to run a plug test to see how your bike is doing.

Removal of Variator and belt: Begin by removing the kick start lever with a 10mm socket.Figure 1 Then remove the belt housing black plastic cover, first remove the two screws using a larger than normal phillips screwdriver, then it should pull straight off. Remove the two 10mm bolts (Venice) or the two screws (Vino) that hold the airbox onto the belt housing.Figure 2 Note: you do not need to remove the airbox completely, as it should hang from the snorkel tube that connects it to the carb. Now remove all the 8mm nuts (Venice) or screws (Vino) from the belt housing,Figure 3 don't forget the one in the middle! Figure 4 The belt housing should be able to be removed now by rocking it up and down slightly and pulling at the same time, if it does not move at all, you may have forgotten a screw or bolt holding it on. If you have checked and you got all the bolts or screws, use a rubber mallet to tap it off gently. Note: the gasket found under the belt housing is easily broken, mosltly installed for vibration purposes, my opinion is that it is not generally needed, but discard at own risk. Once the belt housing is removed you will see two pulleys (front and rear) and the drive belt. Figure 4a Remove the crankshaft nut, 18mm nut (Venice) or 17mm nut (Vino) with an impact wrench (easiest) or a strap wrench and socket, or large channel locks and a socket. Figure 5 Once removed pull the front half of the pulley off with all the washers at the same time (this is easier than doing it one at a time). You will see a small paper thin washer next to the variator sleeve. Figure 18 Do not lose that washer as some new variator kits come with them and some do not. Remove it and put it aside where it will not get lost. Pull the belt off the front half and let it dangle to the ground. Pull slightly on the back half of the variator (just about 1/2 and inch or so). Then grab around the back pulley half with two fingers and pull the back plate and the back half of the pulley together between your thumb and fingers and pull the whole thing off together (if you just pull off the back half of the pulley and don't grab the backplate at the same time, all the rollers will fall out all over the place - its not the end of the world, but it makes a mess). Figure 6 Remove the belt completely by pulling it off the rear clutch pulley, and set it aside. Note: if your scooter has upwards of 1500-4000miles and you haven't replaced the belt you will not get satisfactory results. If your belt is well worn, I suggest getting a new one from your dealer or getting a Kevlar belt from us, I have seen it make the difference between 40mph and 55mph.

Removal of Clutch Assembly: Now take the same tools you used to remove the front crankshaft nut (the one on the variator) either an impact wrench, or a combo of channel locks and socket or strap wrench and socket to remove the 24mm nut holding the clutch assembly on. Figure 7 Once removed pull off the clutch bell (the drum right behind the nut you just removed). Figure 8 Then you will be able to pull off the whole clutch assembly. Figure 9

Removal of Clutch from Clutch Assembly: You will see that there is a huge nut holding the clutch on to the clutch assembly. Figure 10 This has to be removed. The easiest way that I have found is you use a vice mounted on a workbench, chuck the nut side in the vice, then use your strap wrench or channel locks to turn the assembly, it is easiest to grip on the clutch itself. Be careful when the nut is almost off as the assembly is under spring tension from the torque driver spring. The best way to do it is to use the vice just to loosen it a little, then pull it out and put it down on the ground clutch side up. If you push down on the clutch itself you will be able to release the spring tension and loosen the huge nut by hand until it is off, then slowly let up on the clutch until the spring is fully decompressed. Figure 11

Install of Clutch Springs and Torque Driver Spring: Now that you have the clutch assembly seperated, look at the clutch and you will see three (Venice) or two (Vino) springs. Figure 12 These are the springs that are responsible for the stall speed of the clutch. The tighter the springs the higher the stall (or engagment) speed. Getting the clutch to engage at a higher RPM helps the scooter to start off closer to the power band, and thus, getting you more "jump" off the line. Now granted there will not be a huge "jump" off the line with stage 1 alone. It actually may be slower until 5-7 mph, but at that point you will see a signifigant increase in acceleration, and a 7-10mph faster top speed, which makes the trade off well worth it. Take the clutch and remove all three (Venice), two (Vino) of the stock springs and replace them with the ones provided in your kit. The easiest way to get them off and on is to use a pair of vice grips (locking plyers that will not "let go" until you push the release). Using this method, you will not have to spend hand strength squeezing the handles of normal plyers, but use all the strength you need for getting the springs off and on. Once you have the springs installed, replace the large torque driver spring onto the pulley assembly (the part that is left after you take off the clutch) with the one provided in your kit. Now put the clutch spring side down onto the torque driver spring (the large one you placed onto the pulley assembly and push it down until the threads come through for the clutch nut. There are two flat surfaces inside the circle of the clutch hole that match with the threaded shaft, you will have to line this up as you compress the spring. Once the clutch is all the way down and you can see the threaded part slowly thread on the nut as far as you can (you will want to hold the clutch on as flat as possible so that you can thread the nut on as far as possible with your fingers (the help of a friend is always helpful at this part). Once the nut is hand tight, you will want to tighten it down as tight as you can using a vice or the same method you used to remove it. Note: if you do not get this tight enough the clutch can come loose while you are riding, if this happens your scoot will stall when you come to a complete stop. This is not the end of the world as we know it. Just take it all apart again and get it tight on there.

Install of Drive Train: Now that you have your clutch assembly back together, place it on the rear drive shaft from whence it came, replace the clutch bell on the outside and replace the outside cluch bell nut on the outside of that, and tighten it down. Now take your variator place the slide guides (the little plastic triangles) on the ramp or back plate. Figure13 Then pick the appropriate weights (you always want to start with the lightest ones in the kit) and place them in the pulley half. Place the back plate in the pulley half with the weights and pick it up to hold it together. Put the crackshaft sleeve provided with the kit in the hole on the pulley half, it will only go in until it hits the back plate. Now place the whole assembly onto the crankshaft, making sure that you hold the back plate on with your fingers as best you can so all the rollers do not fall out. Figure 15 Once the back half of the variator is in place, its time to install the belt. On the clutch pulley, put your fingers in between the pullet half and the heel of your hand on the clutch bell and squeeze the pulley half towards the clutch bell. This will open up the pulley halves enough to get the belt in between them. Put the belt in between the halves and push it down with one hand while the other hand holds them apart. Figure 16 Once you have the belt in between them, it will hold them apart. Make sure you keep pressure on the belt so that it does not pop out. Feed the belt all around the clutch assmebly until it goes from the top, around the back and back out the bottom. Figure 17 Now pull the belt so towards the crankshaft and the variator and put it on the crankshaft. It will rest on the crankshaft sleeve that you previously installed. Figure 18 Once you have it on the shaft you can let go of the clutch end of the belt. Figure 19 Now replace that paper thin washer right up against the crankshaft sleeve. Figure 20 Now put on the finned or outer half of the pulley, then the keyed star washer, Figure 21 then the kickstart washer gear Figure 22 (make sure that this is on the splines of the crankshaft, if you do not, and tighten the nut on there you could damage the crankshaft splines), then the round washer Figure 23 (this washer is not flat. It is bowed in one direction, you want to put it on so that the center of the washer is bowed out towards the nut). Before you install the nut, make sure that all the washers and finned pulley are all tight against each other. Figure 24 Now install the crankshaft nut and tighten it down Figure 5 (make sure you get this plenty tight, an impact wrench is best). Reinstall the belt housing and replace all the 8mm bolts (Venice) or screws (Vino) Figure 25 & Figure 26. If you do not know which ones go where, see the howto on Variator Deregulation. Note: On the Vino and the Venice make sure that you pull out the ground wire and get it on the right bolt or screw, on the Venice make sure you get the mud guard back Figure 27 on the right bolt and attach it to the started on the other side Figure 28. Replace the 10mm bolts (Venice) or screws (Vino) on the airbox to hold it in place and then replace the black plastic belt housing guard with the two screws. Next replace the kickstart lever so that it is parallel to the ground and replace its associated 10mm bolt. Well now, that wasn't too hard, was it? Next on to the pipe...

Removal of Exhaust Pipe: For the removal of the exhaust pipe, please see my howto on Pipe Derestriction, this will apply to both Venice and Vino.

Install of Performance Pipe: First you are going to want to install the canister and mounting bracket on your pipe which is pretty self-explanitory. For pipes using the traditional "Y" mounting bracket leave the bolt that holds the bracket to the pipe only loose enough to work with. Now install the top of the bracket to the scooter, leaving plenty loose for finageling. Figure 29 Now swing the pipe downward a bit so that you can line up the end of the pipe with the exhaust port on your cylinder. Once in place, swing the back of the pipe upward, holding the front of the pipe close to the exhaust port. Figure 30 The difficult part is getting it arond the fan shroud cover, which can be removed at your disgresion. Now that the pipe is in the correct position, put the pipe gasket in the correct position between the flange on the pipe and the exhaust port and install the 10mm bolts that hold it on Figure 22 . Once those are almost snug (you will want to leave a little play in there), you can align the mounting bolts for the mounting bracket and tighten them until not qutie snug. Go back to the exhaust port bolts and tighten them, then you can tighten the mounting bolts. Now get on your scooter see what a REAL machine is supposed to do!!

Adaptations: This howto should prove to work for most minerelli horizontal powered scooters. It will work verbatim on the TN'G L'S, and associated copies such as the Vento and any other model with the same motor. It will also work on a Zuma, the pipe does need to be modified, but if you get it from us, it will be pre-modified. This may work for other applications as a guide as well.

 

 

 


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