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Old 06-20-2010, 06:09 PM
swift721 swift721 is offline
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Default 98 zuma not starting no fuel

i have a 98 zuma that i have torn down the carb and cleaned out also took the gas tank out and cleaned it did this because it would idle but die once you gave a a little gas. tank was starting to rust so that caused the carb to clog but all cleaned out and now i can not get it to start tried priming it myself and still just cranks and starts for just a quick second if i put a little starting fluid into it it runs for about 3-4 seconds then dies and i have pulled the gas line off to see if the carb is pushing out gas or not and it did not so need a little info on this not looking to upgrade it or anything as i am fixing it for a friend any info would be great
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Old 06-22-2010, 12:31 PM
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There's a vacuum line from the carb to the fuel petcock that causes the fuel to flow. It's located just behind the throttle hook-up. Pull that off & suck on it a bit. If the gas doesn't flow then there's probably a block in the line.
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:56 PM
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yes i have done this and it is flowing perfectly fine but when it does start off the starting fluid it does not flow at all and the hole in the carb is clear also i cleaned the carb 4 times so far looking for anything blocking anything and nothing it runs for just a few seconds off the starting fluid and then dies. spark is good and cant seem to figure it out i have also moved the needle up one notch to see if that might help but nothing again kind of blocked at this point as to what to do.
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Old 06-22-2010, 06:38 PM
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so there's fuel in the float bowl; but it isn't getting to the engine.

How many turns on the air/fuel screw do you have? The stock setting is 1 7/8 turns out (plus or minus 1/4 turn).
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Old 06-23-2010, 05:13 AM
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yes i manually put fuel in the float bowl by sucking on the vacuam line and the float is moving just not getting to the engine and the carb isnt pulling the fuel in by it self the only thing that i havent checked yet is compression test as i dont have one but it does have compression as i took out the plug and used my finger as a plug over the hole to see
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:00 PM
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check the reeds to see if they cracked. A cracked reed will have the same symptom. Did you check for spark also? was the plug wet?
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Old 06-23-2010, 03:08 PM
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yes is getting spark and no fluid on the spark plug will have to check the reed as i have not look at that
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:39 AM
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well pulled out the reeds and they are in good shape nothing wrong with them also pulled the top of the head off to look in the cylinder and cylinder looked good not scoring on it so still dont know what is causeing this to not want to start or get gas when i runs for the few seconds off the starter fluid any other ideas would be great
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Old 06-26-2010, 12:18 PM
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whaen you suck on the vacuum hose,do you have to suck pretty hard for gas to flow?when you cleaned the carb,did you take the float and the float needle out?
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Old 06-27-2010, 03:41 PM
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no dont need to suck on it very hard just barely. yes took the float and needle out to make sure everything was clean also have checked to make sure float is not sticking and no it isnt i can blow through the gas inlet and then move the float up and it stops the flow as should be when i leave the gas line off and start it with the starting fluid the carb is not makeing a suction for the petcock to work as no gas comes out the gas line
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Old 06-27-2010, 10:51 PM
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check your compression and see where its at. if its low then that would be your problem.
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Old 06-28-2010, 05:09 AM
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will have to do that do you what it should be around on these ? like a car about 140psi?
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Old 06-28-2010, 01:54 PM
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If your zuma is stock compression is low since its compression ratio is 6.8:1 or 7:1 so i think its around 85 i think baka again correct if wrong more or less. Have you checked for air leaks btw. Take wd-40 and spray around your airbox and if the idle changes you have an air leak. Check your exhaust for exhaust leak by pluggin the exit and if it doesn't die you have an exhaust leak. You running stock exhaust? btw thats important for that test. Im not sure if you can do that with aftermarket....baka clarify please lol.
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Old 06-28-2010, 02:06 PM
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stock compression will range from around 114 for the low and 160 for the high.the 114 is around the service limit for the low which means that is either worn or has slight seizure. the 160 means ring are good and cylinder is good but lots of carbon buildup on the piston and head. a good factory range is 125-145.
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Old 06-28-2010, 11:17 PM
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What is the compression for the athena big bore supposed to be?
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Stage 6 modular race liquid cooled, Stage 6 R1200 exhaust, 21mm Black PHBG Dellorto racing edition carb, Malossi Over range kit! Malossi Delta Clutch and wing bell w/blue clutch springs,Malossi VL12 reed cage with CF reeds,Malossi Brake pads, Stage 6 multimeter (Tach,temp and hourmeter), Str8 water pump and housing, Stage 6 Chrome Kick Starter,Genuine Yamaha Bar Ends.Dual Headlight Mod,Michelin Bopper front and Pirelli SL26 Rear,Motul 800 double ester oil, BR9EIX , PRE-MIX, If you don't have a full race setup run stock airbox! if you don't you are a noobtard
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  #16  
Old 06-28-2010, 11:39 PM
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its different from engine to engine but one I did had 120psi before breakin cold.lower psi is better for higher reving pipes.less torque but longer life for street and less strain on the engine parts.plus it runs cooler and you don't have to worry about the engine knocking from to high a compression.
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Old 07-24-2010, 11:02 AM
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soory havent been on for a few but i have checked the compression and it is low about 40-50psi so i believe that i will replace the rings and i noticed when i took off the cylinder head there was oil on the top of the piston and on the cylinder head so believe that a set of ring will solve my issue what you guys think? and yes it is completly stock from what i can tell do you guys think the rings will fix it the head is still in great shape no marks at all on it
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