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Old 03-31-2012, 05:24 PM
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Default THIS IS A TWO PARTER!!! First is my choke, or lack there of?

Ok, so im looking through my scoot getting ready to do this water cooled thing, and watching a friend work on some 60's moby, when he starts cabling up his choke and i realized, i dont have a choke cable, never had, ive taken my carb apart numerous times and never had to unplug anything of the sort. Then i realized somewhere down the line of (i think) my first crash, the electric choke popped off, and instead of picking it up off the road (i was missing alot of skin and really needed a peroxide bath) or getting a new one, i just blocked it off with a screw and never got around to replacing it, i NEVER really have an starting issues, and it still does 54 comfortably. Whats the down side of tuning rich enough to run choke-less? Exhaust packing lifespan? Any information you guys can throw at me about that would be cool. Now for the second thing, im going watercooled this summer, got the cylinder, its a mallosi something er rather i believe its an 80cc kit with a 10mm crank so im going to mount a 125 radiator of a suzuki rm and try and hide it in my leg sheild, the pump i was going to buy on here has been replaced by three different pumps. Well they all look the same, but different from the carbon fiber one that used to be on here months ago, the price is pretty killer too, i hope it will fit my zuma but it doesnt have the "fits these bikes" thing at the bottom like i thought this site used to do. so here i am beeseaching the internet modders for just a drop of your always useful common sense.
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O4 Yamaha zuma yw50 Silver

Pollini 9 roller verio 3grms, pollini crank, pollini aluminium EVO 70cc, turbokitR 70 pipe, 21mm dellorto carb, and stock clutch stage6 torque spring. /
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:27 PM
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well, the screw seems to be blocking the choke/enrichment port fairly well if you hadn't noticed any issues. Believe me; if your choke circuit was running at full throttle you would notice (serious bogging issues). Adding a manual choke isn't very hard & make for easier cooler weather starting.

Running rich raises the risk of fouling the plug; carbon buildup in the cylinder & exhaust and it will hit you in the wallet with more frequent fill ups.
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:53 AM
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word thanx for the input BWS man, i think running just a little too rich has been whats kept my cylinder from seizing the many many times my exhaust has fallen off and the two months out of the year i ride in sub zero temps. Today i plan on ordering hoses and stuffs for my liquid build, any opinion on wether i should get a head temp sensor or a coolant temp sensor? i dont think provo sells them but i may be wrong, i havent perused the shop in months, just the other day for a second, looking for water pumps, i sure hope that cheap one works for my zuma the price is pretty awesome.
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O4 Yamaha zuma yw50 Silver

Pollini 9 roller verio 3grms, pollini crank, pollini aluminium EVO 70cc, turbokitR 70 pipe, 21mm dellorto carb, and stock clutch stage6 torque spring. /
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:18 AM
mpathus mpathus is offline
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Hey Duder, sounds like a very interesting project to H2O convert!

"Too rich"?? What's wrong with not seizing, and easy starting (as long as your spark plug doesn't foul).

I run rich, and other than too much smoke when cold (tee-hee) I have no issues with performance that I could care about - reliability over cutting edge performance is my mantra. Mine has a manual choke though.

I've dealt with muffler packing becoming choked by first tightly wrapping the silencer's perforated through tube with a layer of stainless scrubber pads then followed by the fiberglass matting. That has lasted 3 times as long as just fiberglass, for me so far.

Happy riding!

Last edited by mpathus; 04-04-2012 at 08:20 AM.
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:07 PM
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Brakes fixed and new rear rubber im set for the summer maybe get a new front one on there sometime soon but just as i get ALL the bubbles out of my bumbling first bleed job, and then having two others bleed it for me and then getting brake fluid all over my rotor, ugh this brake fluid things been a mess, apparently you should change and fill that stuff after so many miles and you wont run into these problems...

Now on the the fun news.
looks like its a 12 mm connecting cylinder.... fml! so now im going to buy the cheapo Doppler crank and make a day of it? adding a crank swap to a liquid cooled conversion, makes it a pretty epic day... making the first riding week of the swap a pretty intense one. THAT i can be pretty sure of. Now im just wondering if i should do it at all. Plus being 80cc and 12mm wrist pin makes me think i would have to widen my thrust ports or whatever... then i remember that im crazy and of course im going to do it. Half my paycheck down the drain already. For a radiator im going with half a 250 yamaha radiator, that should cool for a 125 right? Since im only going to be doing an 80cc kit, i figured i would go on the safe side. For the heat and all that i guess im going to ditch my speedo and wire up a vapor offroad display for the rpm mph coolant/head temp. If i can get it to run reliably ill think of adding a pyrometer later. does anyone have any advice on radiator hosing? where to get it or do i bite the bullet and drop 50 bucks on the neon stuff?
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:24 PM
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ok so the cnc stage six pumps in the provo store are just upgraded impellers for if you already have a water pump, which is cool, i ended up buying the grey and pink minerelli motori pump from another site. Pretty good price on it, now all im waiting for is my crank and bearing seals/ gaskets. and then ill try and compile some kind of how to. Ive been looking at little KX dirtbikes for the hose routing. Getting excited for the summer time!!!
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:41 PM
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It will be an interesting build to see.
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Old 05-22-2012, 12:42 AM
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update, change in cylinder, got an airisal for uber cheap, its a 10mm dual ring, all aluminum at least. spent 30 bucks on hoses at advanced auto, looking at the waterpump itself now... one screw doesnt match up, its the one on the bottom right if your looking at the pump straight on... measured where the screws in the flywheel would meet the drive plate for the pump, seems pretty dead on, so i guess hold the pump on with only two screws? Friend thinks i should keep the fan and put the radiator out of site, sounds like a decent idea but... i have insurance and plates and stuff, theres no reason to hide my insanity... if anything it would be a theft deturrant. cant steal something that looks insane you know? anyways... could definitely end up with alot of pictures uploaded soon. any info on that one screw... or if i should just get long shoulder screws and keep the fan? would be helpfull, any helpfull response will result in me posting pictures.
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Old 05-22-2012, 11:24 AM
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Using only two of the screws to mount the water pump runs the risk of having a leak develop at the pump. I'm not 100 % sure how you would get around that; but it won't be easy. If the hole is not too far off the target; you get someone with a welding rig to fill the hole & re-drill it in the proper location.
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:00 AM
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Ok first off, congrats on deciding to go liquid cooled, but I wish i had caught you before, because you bought the wrong water pump, the correct water pump lines up perfectly. Provo does not sell it, they sell the bigger impeller, but not the pump and pump housing itself. I will try to link the one that is proper, I got it off scootercraft, but they are out of business now.

Second, Airsal is not that great.
third, you need to run a temp/tach/Hourmeter gauge, stage 6 makes them.

Fourth, Temps are an issue, you need to be running no cooler than 45celsius and no more than 60-65celsius.
One 125 radiator will not cut it.
The Water pump you should have is the STR8 Pump for minarelli horizontals, and they do line up no problems. If yours isn't lining up, you bought the wrong one. From your post about a "motori" pump, you bought the wrong one, return it, and get the right one.
I hope you didn't buy the Doppler crank, you should only buy two brands of crank Malossi or Stage6/Athena
The Stage 6 HPC Full circle 12mm pinned crank is great, it's got a heavier conrod for more topend due to extra inertia.
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2005 Zuma Team Yamaha Blue
1974 RD-250 Sold
1987 FZ700 Fazer with 4-1 Vance and Hines exhaust
Stage 6 modular race liquid cooled, Stage 6 R1200 exhaust, 21mm Black PHBG Dellorto racing edition carb, Malossi Over range kit! Malossi Delta Clutch and wing bell w/blue clutch springs,Malossi VL12 reed cage with CF reeds,Malossi Brake pads, Stage 6 multimeter (Tach,temp and hourmeter), Str8 water pump and housing, Stage 6 Chrome Kick Starter,Genuine Yamaha Bar Ends.Dual Headlight Mod,Michelin Bopper front and Pirelli SL26 Rear,Motul 800 double ester oil, BR9EIX , PRE-MIX, If you don't have a full race setup run stock airbox! if you don't you are a noobtard
Team provo moderator, keep on scootin "scooter troops"

Last edited by zeonsredcomet; 05-23-2012 at 03:43 AM.
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  #11  
Old 05-23-2012, 09:56 PM
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thanx for the temps im uploading a picture of the rad and the pump but to my profile i think, cause i cant on here, anywaus my heads a jumble with the whole thing
neeed sleep.
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O4 Yamaha zuma yw50 Silver

Pollini 9 roller verio 3grms, pollini crank, pollini aluminium EVO 70cc, turbokitR 70 pipe, 21mm dellorto carb, and stock clutch stage6 torque spring. /
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:34 PM
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real quick though, why wont half a 250 radiator work? the rads in the aerox and aprillia are tiny in comparison....
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  #13  
Old 05-29-2012, 02:15 AM
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You need to be in the 55celsius to 65 celsius range to run optimally. One radiator won't be enough with a performance kit.

You need to check out my Liquid cooled build on here, post in my build thread with any questions. I don't get on here much anymore. Do you have a facebook?
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2005 Zuma Team Yamaha Blue
1974 RD-250 Sold
1987 FZ700 Fazer with 4-1 Vance and Hines exhaust
Stage 6 modular race liquid cooled, Stage 6 R1200 exhaust, 21mm Black PHBG Dellorto racing edition carb, Malossi Over range kit! Malossi Delta Clutch and wing bell w/blue clutch springs,Malossi VL12 reed cage with CF reeds,Malossi Brake pads, Stage 6 multimeter (Tach,temp and hourmeter), Str8 water pump and housing, Stage 6 Chrome Kick Starter,Genuine Yamaha Bar Ends.Dual Headlight Mod,Michelin Bopper front and Pirelli SL26 Rear,Motul 800 double ester oil, BR9EIX , PRE-MIX, If you don't have a full race setup run stock airbox! if you don't you are a noobtard
Team provo moderator, keep on scootin "scooter troops"
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:31 AM
Houcxwer Houcxwer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duderonime View Post
word thanx for the input BWS man, i think running just a little too rich has been whats kept my cylinder from seizing the many many times my exhaust has fallen off and the two months out of the year i ride in sub zero temps. Today i plan on ordering hoses and stuffs for my liquid build, any opinion on wether i should get a head temp sensor or a coolant temp sensor? i dont think provo sells them but i may be wrong, i havent perused the shop in months, just the other day for a second, looking for water pumps, i sure hope that cheap one works for my zuma the price is pretty awesome.
Yeah, I also hope cheap one works for my zuma and the price is pretty awesome. Most of us hope so.
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