Vino upgrade issues...

[Blackbomber]

Oil on the threads is nothing to worry about. I'm not sure why this occurs, but I think it is a bit of wet fuel / oil mixture from when the bike was shut down last. When you pulled the plug last time, gravity encourages the mixture to run down the top of the chamber, and some of that gets into the threads of the spark plug hole. An insertion and removal transfers it to the threads of the plug. I'm not trying to give a scientific analysis here, just my guess of what is occuring.
I think if the rideability problem were the result of your soft siezure, it would be less intermittent. Like only when the engine was warm, for instance.

[SomeDayPilot]

yeah, it does run great right out of the shoot.... after prolonged riding, like 8 minutes in, it starts having acceleration issues.

[Blackbomber]

Ok, if it is that predictable, then I would do this:
When cold, do a dry compression test, and note the number.

Ride the bike until the issue occurs, then IMMEDIATELY do a dry compression check. Note the number.

If the hot and cold tests are close, then I would not worry about the top end, and concentrate elsewhere.

If there is a significant deviation, then you will need to pull the top end, and see what is wrong.

[X7rocks]

it might aslo be his TD (torque driver) warming up and haveing the stock lube/gel inside it overheat and become sludge

pick up a can of white lithium grease and apply this inside the torgue driver it will allow the TD to close all the way when you get into a stop and will not allow your TD to be stuck in the higher gear.

and also do the compression test im up with BB with that one

[Blackbomber]

X7, noob question, but how do I disassemble the torque driver?
I should clean and lube mine just for maintnance purposes.

[X7rocks]

you have to take off the seal that helps hold moisture out of it,then there is a pin inside that you take apart then it slides right off,

althouth it might be different on a TN'G scooter but it should be the same with the pin holding it down.

isnt there a parts schematic on this site i can use as a reference?

[Blackbomber]

Good enough. I didn't touch the seal. I just noted there was no obvious fastener. Do you usually trash the seal when you remove it? I'm pretty good at getting them out intact when I can go through the middle (have a puller, also). From what I remember last time I looked, it seems this might be the kind you have to pierce to pull. Either way I think I'll get a seal first.

I have bigger issues, anyway. I split my airbox to carb elbow, and there is evidence of sand in the filtered side of the box. It split at the carb, so there is guaranteed to be sand in the motor. I'm not going to run it until I can fully dismantle and clean it. On that note, what are the chances I can clean my crankpin (big end) bearing without disassembling the crank? I don't have access to a truing stand, and don't feel like springing for a new crank right now. I just want to get it clean before any more damage is done. It's not making any noise. And has plenty of power up to about 30mph. I'm assuming it was running lean at that point, which is what led me to find the split elbow. DARN!

[X7rocks]

lol
i was pretty much able to see that large bearing just from taking off the reed assembly,you can probably just spray it with something engine friendly and run it.i dont see the need to replace the crank.

[Blackbomber]

Ok. I haven't even pulled the intake yet. I just started college full time, and time is precious. I'll start a specific thread once I get that far. Sorry for hijacking your thread, SomeDay.

[X7rocks]

hey he will come back and put it right in order lol.

[SomeDayPilot]

True Story!
Now im confused how the compression tester was reading....

I started out trying to check the compression by turning the motor by the kick crank. It barely gave me a reading at all, the needle would bounce up to 20 or 30. So then i started cranking it by way of the starter....

Initial.... Cold 93psi, Warm, 85psi...
this was the first round...

I stopped and repeated the step, But this time, instead of letting the starter just keep turning over, i would let it do one comression and stop, then another and stop.
the readings would then, after that gradually climb up to...

Hot 100psi
Cold 100psi...


Confused, i tried the tester on my car, 152 consistant... so the tester worked there...

[Blackbomber]

Is it the type of tester that "remembers" the pressure (i.e. has a release valve), or the kind that once you remove it from the hole, it goes to zero? I have used both types, and I think the first type is the only kind you can use on two strokes.

As for your numbers, I'd like to see more than 100, but the deviation is fine. Did you have the throttle open while cranking?

[SomeDayPilot]

its the type with the valve that remembers the PSI... did not use the throttle...

i thought the PSI should be around 120?

[Blackbomber]

Try again holding the throttle wide open.

[SomeDayPilot]

100...More like 98psi WOT Cold

[Blackbomber]

Hmm, perhaps I'm missing something. Hopefully someone with more experiance can chime in. I was expecting since the issue prevails when the engine is warm, the compression would differ, if the top end was indeed the culprit. You can always try a wet test to verify the ring seal. Just squirt a little oil into the spark plug hole before testing.

[X7rocks]

try the test with the engine at normal running temps

[SomeDayPilot]

i did... 100 PSI WOT, after running it for 10 minutes.

Then an hour cool down. 98 PSI

What psi should i be seeing?

[X7rocks]

well its a two stroke there supposed to have low compression ratios
what is the malossi sport rated at? 9:1 8:1 ? it isnt a race kit.

[SomeDayPilot]

well im way under that...

should i be looking at a new top end?

[X7rocks]

take it apart and you will see my son.this is why i stay away from cast iron now.

[SomeDayPilot]

Assumption tells me you have the Athena 70?

Still use the Autolube System? And do you Pre-Mix?

what temp do you use on the spark plug?

...just gathering Info.

I was originally going to do the Athena. But i got a few good reviews on the Cast Iron.
What problems have you had with the cast iron?

[X7rocks]

got the athena slightly ported and blueprinted to match cases and gaskets

yes on oil pump

and temperature is a 8 plug.

and no premixing is required

[zeonsredcomet]

I was getting 90 PSI cold on my athena BBK and im slightly worried. I have the original piston kit in it since i installed the BBK 3500 miles ago in may of 2009. I think its time for a new piston kit. What are some second opinions and i already know yours x7

[zeonsredcomet]

Yeah its still running but most people dont want to buy a new cylinder kit when you can save the jug by stopping a seize and potentially having scoring and scarring beforehand is all

[SomeDayPilot]

so where can we get an official PSI or Compression Ratio? There isnt any info ANYWHERE on the Interwebz...

[SomeDayPilot]

uhhhh..... i was wanting to look over some of those messages... :/

oh well...

Ive gotten a little bit longer out of my performance time by Pre-Mixing as well as using the auto-lube...

Instead of 5 minutes of good runtime, into sluggish... Im getting 30 now... hehe...