View Full Version : Paint?????????
Chreaus
10-19-2004, 10:24 PM
OK
I'm gonna get rolling on my paint job.
Being new I read the how-to KV posted about the paint.
I started sanding today with a 400 grit wet dry paper(heaviest grit I found W/D). The paper sure makes a smooth finish. I was expecting a little more though. Just takes off the shine. Where my big scratches were it also smoothed well, but I could still feel them. The pic shows one spot that was heavily scratched.
Will the base layer of paint cover these heavier scratches or should I sand more?
Maybe start with heavier paper then go to the smooth?
I think it smooths the lighter scratches great.
I also like the idea of doing a two tone paint(Elliot) anyone try this?
:cool:
Thanks
King Vino
10-23-2004, 06:16 AM
Plagerized from: http://sportbikeguy.com/garage/floor/painting.html
TRead Posted BY member: go go go
Actually that wasn't my howto, but rather a howto that was submitted by member, go go go before Erich reconfigured the howtro segment.
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At some point we are all going to get tired of staring at the manufacturers colours... so I found this!
(I haven't painted mine yet, but will. I don't know what PPG stands for)
I didn't know where to post it since it's kinda of general.
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Tools Needed:
1. Whatever tools that are required to remove the part to paint
2. Airbrush
Other Items:
1. Sandpaper, 400-600 grit
2. Tack cloth
3. Plastic adhesion promoter (primer)
4. Color paint
5. Clearcoat
6. Reducer
7. Flex agent if paint requires it
When using an airbrush, many times you are required to thin the paint.
Check out a local hobby store for an inexpensive airbrush kit
(or a compressor and paint gun for larger projects).
If you're unsure of painting, try a practice piece or the back
of the plastic piece you are painting.
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Step 1 - Remove part to be painted
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Step 2 - Clean thoroughly
Remove all grease and wax using a degreaser and a detergent.
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Step 3 - Wet sand
Wet sand lightly, so that the promoter will adhere better.
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Step 4 - Clean again
Clean again with detergent and dry, or use a tack cloth.
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Step 5 - Plastic adhesion coat
Follow instructions on the can.
Apply 2 coats and allow for drying time (time on can)
DO NOT OVERSPRAY!!!
If you notice imperfections, you can wet sand again and apply another promoter coat.
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Step 6 - Paint
Follow instructions on the paint can.
Wipe down lightly with a tack cloth to remove any dust or debris.
You'll likely have to use a reducer at this point to thin out your paint mix (refer to the can or your airbrush instructions for details).
Apply about 3-4 thin coats, allow for drying time per instructions on can between coats, in many cases over an hour.
DO NOT OVERSPRAY!!!
More coats may be needed, you want a smooth surface.
Allow to dry for 6-24 hours, the more coats, the longer the drying time.
FYI - Don't touch while drying, yes it is wet, yes you will leave marks.
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Step 7 - Clear Coat
Follow instructions on the clear coat can.
Wipe down lightly with a tack cloth to remove any dust or debris.
Apply about 2-4 coats, allow for drying time per instructions on can between coats, in many cases over three hours.
DO NOT OVERSPRAY!!!
More coats may be needed, you want a smooth, bubble free surface.
Allow to dry for a full 24 hours.
FYI - Don't touch!
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Step 8 - READ THE LABELS
Check with the paint and clearcoat maker about waxing information before using any wax. Most recommend not to in the beginning.
The labels will also tell you any additional instructions the manufacturer recommends you follow.
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Step 8 - Reinstall part
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PPG, DuPont, and ColorRite are good paints to use, here is some PPG info:
Plastic Adhesion Promoter - SXA1050
Reducer - DT870
Urethane Clearcoat - DCU2021
Hardener - DCX61
Plagerized from: http://sportbikeguy.com/garage/floor/painting.html
TRead Posted BY member: go go go
Chreaus
10-23-2004, 02:03 PM
The sanding is slow but fruitful.
In this new pic You can see I still need to remove the adhesive tape that held the emblem on. I'll get a razor on it then sand under it.
The patch(top left) was made with a "plastic metal" filler. Was unsure on using it with the Plastic panel but seems to work. (only cost 1.50)
I am hoping to patch the big hole in my legshield today with a fiberglass cloth.
I like it so far..............
Chreaus
10-23-2004, 04:32 PM
heres some pics of the patch
Chreaus
11-14-2004, 12:29 AM
It's been slow finding time to work on this but I'm still going.
Heres some pics;
1) Some more of the fiberglass patch over the hole I patched on the legshield. Sanded and smooth to touch.
2) Headlight (coiling) panel. Wanted to fill old blinker holes.
3) shaved down headlight panel and ready for fiberglass patch.
I also have finished sanding the rear side panels. Filled some scratches with metal filler and sanded.Smooth to the touch. Should be close to paint and hopefuly painted for Christmas.
:cool:
marylandmark
11-15-2004, 10:10 AM
What is the final color going to be?
Any graphics?
Just curious...
Chreaus
11-15-2004, 09:44 PM
- M M -
Still unsure on the final color. I think it'll be mostly a solid color. Probably some Graphics if I need to hide any rough spots. I don't want to get toooo much attention after all.
I need to research where to buy paint. And talk to the painter.
Thanks
open for ideas too
:cool:
King Vino
11-15-2004, 11:22 PM
Needs flames. Things with flames move faster!
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