Shane
10-17-2004, 02:04 AM
After one hell of a lot of experimentation utilizing my old dirtbike know how( and a quick thread from Takumi to start the juices flowing), I've dialed in my friend's 2004 Vino into a fire breathing dragon!
I have to admit, at first I was very skeptical because the Vino looks so damn innocent.
But Sarah was begging me and said she would hook me up with the Megadeth show in Reno, since they aren't coming to Portland yet.
So here it goes...
By the way, you don't have to know anything to do this. I'm serious. Just use the force. Don't think or you'll get confused- just go for it.
NOTE: Only for the 50cc 2 stroker! In PDX, my elevation is between 20 to
100 feet.
This is designed for the people like me who are totally freakin broke.
If you choose to buy kits and stuff, that's your thing.
I'll try to make it easy to follow---------------------------
TOOLS:
screwdrivers flat & phillips
sockets: 10 & 13 & extension (from what I remember?)
battery powered drill w/ long phillips bit (it saves a lot of time!)
coffee
beer for when the coffee wears off
needle nose plyers
PART A. DERESTRICTION----------------------------------
1. pull out washer or cone from your exhaust. Sarahs was a con welded in 3 places. I put the exhaust in a vise and used a hammer and a flathead screwdriver. I picked the friendliest weld and went at it with the screwdriver. It took about 8 hits and broke the weld.
I then stuck the screwdriver in the center hole of the cone and pulled on the screwdriver pulling the broken weld up.
After maneuvering it a few times the whole cone popped out. Simple as that!
Now your exhaust is derestricted! Put it back on using the tips from Provo!
2. Get that stupid washer out of the variator! It's in the Provo "Variator Derestriction" section.
These were all the restrictions Sarah had on her Vino from Oregon, Yours maybe different but it's a good place to start!
NOW COMES THE FUN PART!-----------
If you don't feel like a greasemonkey yet, you will after this!
1. Remove all the body parts- This part is in Provo. You should remove the sides, seat/cargo bucket, rack, etc.
This is where the drill comes in handy!
2. Check your spark plug and make sure it's cool. Check the gap too!
about .027 (I believe),(you always want all your poop in a group when you start tuning carbs. At least that's what my grandfather used to tell me. He was an old So-Cal hotrodder after the war)
3. Unscrew the airbox from the tranny (2 bolts) and unclip the tube, completely removing the airbox from the Carb.
4. Pull the fuel line up and off the carburator. For Sarah, it was the black hose with a black wire/springy looking thing wrapped around it.I pushed mine off with a flathead screwdriver after pushing up the small silver clip.
5. Look behind the carb and try to find where the carb is connected to the "big black hose". This is your rubber "intake manifold". We like to use terms like that because it makes lawyers and Doctors feel like they can never be as cool as us greasemonkeys! Oh yeah, baby!!!!!
Now unscrew the phillips/bolt that is connected to what looks like a little metal belt or ring. This is what is tightly connecting the manifold to the carb. You should unscrew it quite a bit, so you can remove the carb easily.
6. Now carefully/slowly pull the carb out of/ away from the manifold.
carefully let the carb rest there suspended. Be carefull not to strain the wires though, they can cause you unnecesary problems if you aren't careful.
TIME FOR SOME CARBURETOR TWEAKIN, JOE DIRT STYLE!!!-------------
You might want to put your mullet in a pony tail for this part. Oh yeah, and put out that damn cigerette. Trust me.
These carb settings are what I found to be best after some SERIOUS ASS testing around my area. And believe me, my neighbors were pissed! But it was worth it. This Vino hauls balls plus a donicle!
This was'nt just some 1 hour test. I felt like Bill Murray in Ground Hogs Day!
I tested this Vino every day for over a week to make sure I get it right.
I mean- it's Megadeth tix for God's sakes! I gave it 110% I tried every possible combination between 3 different jets and many different fuel needle sttings and various air box de-snorkeling and openings and drilling outs.
This is what I found to be the best set up for my elevation in Portland.
( don't move here, it rains every day of the year and we are all lumberjacks and pioneers)
TECH STUFF-----------------------------
Portland elevation 20 to 100 feet, high humidity
fuel needle= moved one stage up/ one level. My stock level on the needle was in the middle. I removed the clip and moved it one level toward the "sharp needle like tip". (thanx Jered- if 6 was 9)
Jetting= 72.5
airbox= no change/ stock
---------------------------------------------------------------
Here's how to do it...
The carb is setting there where you left it. Now-
7. Look at the top of the carb. You'll see a throttle assembly with wire cables coming into and out of it. These wires dissappear into the body of the bike and end up connected to the twist grip of your handle bars.
Unscrew the 2 phillips screws that keep this connected to the carb.
Slowly/carefully pull the assembly upwards out of the top of the carb.
Don't touch the long needle to anything cause you don't want to damage the end of it.
This needle is your fuel needle or jet needle.
With needle nose plyers, unhook the tiny spring in the needle assembly from the throttle assembly. Lift up on the white plastic piece and remove it from the throttle assembly. Now use the needle nose to take out the pin from the object that looks like a small cylindar. (throttle valve)
Pull the needle out, noticing where the washer should be, and look at your donicle---- I mean needle!
We wanto to increase the flow of fuel, so we will "raise the needle" which actually means lowering the clip.Confused? If 6 was 9?
DO THIS! look where your clip is stock. Sarahs was in the 3rd or middle position of 5 possible stages.
We pulled out the tiny clip and moved it to the next stage toward the "sharp needle" end. This let's more gas flow! Just what we want.
Put it all back together, reversing what you just did and screw the throttle assembly back on the top of the carb.
8. Jetting- a lot of people have a lot of differnt opinions. Mechanics don't like to talk about it. When I called the shops, everybody played "stupid".
I called at least 30 different shops! scooter and motorbike. No help what-so-ever! One shop even said it was illegal to tell me anything.?.?
Just do this-
At the bottom of the carb is what looks like a bowl (the float chamber).
unscrew the 2 bottom screws and pull downward.
OOOOOps! Hope that cigerette was put out. Did you get gas all over you? good! Then you did it right!
Set the chamber or bowl down and look upwards into the bottom side of the carb.
You'll see a plastic "float". Don't touch it in any way! You don't want to take a chance of messing it up if you don't have to.
inside the "donut hole" shape you'll see 2 brass screws. These are your jets. This is waht allows gas to shoot through. We won't talk about theory here.
Using your screwdriver, unscrew the biggest one in the middle.
(It's the brass screw with a hole in the center- about 8mm wide side to side)
This is your main jet. Sarahs stock jet was a size "64".
replace this with whatever you are jetting to.
I could get into how to jet, but it's very complicated. Basically, you want the jet that will give you the most pull all the way through the high end section of the powerband.
After messing with 4 differnt jets, we found the best was a 72.5!
We were going to just drill the stock 64 jet, but I could'nt find anything to drill it out with. No shop would do it for me either. So we just played it safe and bought jets.
No shop in Portland carried the jet size I needed! The yamaha shops carried only bigger jets. The local Honda shop hooked me up the next day with a shipment from Idaho. Plus they were nicer to me!
You can also order on-line. try CYCLEWAREABLES or any other site that sells "slotted round head" mikuni jets. (part 100/604).
Replace your old jet with your new bigger size. Have somebody twist the throttle all the way "open" while you screw the new jet in just snuggly, not too tight.
Then you can release the throttle. Why?- I heard of a dirt biker who did this and ruined the end of his fuel needle. He had to buy a new one. It's just playing it safe!
Now you can put your float chamber back on. The hardest part is done!
9. Now recconect the carb to the manifold. remember to screw the clamp snuggly!
10. the fuel line to the carb & clip it.
11. Now put the airbox back on, clip it & screw it back on the tranny
12. Now you are ready to tune the carb.
If you have never done this before, I highly recomend you have somebody show you how. A brother, friend, neighbor, meth addict, whatever.
--- adjust idle
--- adjust mixture
you should be good to go. Before you put the body panels back on, I suggest you run it around the neighborhood for a while and check the plug to make sure you have the best heat range and mix.
Your plugs should be a mocha brown with some oil on the first 3 rings.
SEE THIS WEBSIT E IF YOU ARE NOT SURE:
www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/sparkplugs.html
Put on the body panels and you are finished amigo!!!!!!
I have to admit, at first I was very skeptical because the Vino looks so damn innocent.
But Sarah was begging me and said she would hook me up with the Megadeth show in Reno, since they aren't coming to Portland yet.
So here it goes...
By the way, you don't have to know anything to do this. I'm serious. Just use the force. Don't think or you'll get confused- just go for it.
NOTE: Only for the 50cc 2 stroker! In PDX, my elevation is between 20 to
100 feet.
This is designed for the people like me who are totally freakin broke.
If you choose to buy kits and stuff, that's your thing.
I'll try to make it easy to follow---------------------------
TOOLS:
screwdrivers flat & phillips
sockets: 10 & 13 & extension (from what I remember?)
battery powered drill w/ long phillips bit (it saves a lot of time!)
coffee
beer for when the coffee wears off
needle nose plyers
PART A. DERESTRICTION----------------------------------
1. pull out washer or cone from your exhaust. Sarahs was a con welded in 3 places. I put the exhaust in a vise and used a hammer and a flathead screwdriver. I picked the friendliest weld and went at it with the screwdriver. It took about 8 hits and broke the weld.
I then stuck the screwdriver in the center hole of the cone and pulled on the screwdriver pulling the broken weld up.
After maneuvering it a few times the whole cone popped out. Simple as that!
Now your exhaust is derestricted! Put it back on using the tips from Provo!
2. Get that stupid washer out of the variator! It's in the Provo "Variator Derestriction" section.
These were all the restrictions Sarah had on her Vino from Oregon, Yours maybe different but it's a good place to start!
NOW COMES THE FUN PART!-----------
If you don't feel like a greasemonkey yet, you will after this!
1. Remove all the body parts- This part is in Provo. You should remove the sides, seat/cargo bucket, rack, etc.
This is where the drill comes in handy!
2. Check your spark plug and make sure it's cool. Check the gap too!
about .027 (I believe),(you always want all your poop in a group when you start tuning carbs. At least that's what my grandfather used to tell me. He was an old So-Cal hotrodder after the war)
3. Unscrew the airbox from the tranny (2 bolts) and unclip the tube, completely removing the airbox from the Carb.
4. Pull the fuel line up and off the carburator. For Sarah, it was the black hose with a black wire/springy looking thing wrapped around it.I pushed mine off with a flathead screwdriver after pushing up the small silver clip.
5. Look behind the carb and try to find where the carb is connected to the "big black hose". This is your rubber "intake manifold". We like to use terms like that because it makes lawyers and Doctors feel like they can never be as cool as us greasemonkeys! Oh yeah, baby!!!!!
Now unscrew the phillips/bolt that is connected to what looks like a little metal belt or ring. This is what is tightly connecting the manifold to the carb. You should unscrew it quite a bit, so you can remove the carb easily.
6. Now carefully/slowly pull the carb out of/ away from the manifold.
carefully let the carb rest there suspended. Be carefull not to strain the wires though, they can cause you unnecesary problems if you aren't careful.
TIME FOR SOME CARBURETOR TWEAKIN, JOE DIRT STYLE!!!-------------
You might want to put your mullet in a pony tail for this part. Oh yeah, and put out that damn cigerette. Trust me.
These carb settings are what I found to be best after some SERIOUS ASS testing around my area. And believe me, my neighbors were pissed! But it was worth it. This Vino hauls balls plus a donicle!
This was'nt just some 1 hour test. I felt like Bill Murray in Ground Hogs Day!
I tested this Vino every day for over a week to make sure I get it right.
I mean- it's Megadeth tix for God's sakes! I gave it 110% I tried every possible combination between 3 different jets and many different fuel needle sttings and various air box de-snorkeling and openings and drilling outs.
This is what I found to be the best set up for my elevation in Portland.
( don't move here, it rains every day of the year and we are all lumberjacks and pioneers)
TECH STUFF-----------------------------
Portland elevation 20 to 100 feet, high humidity
fuel needle= moved one stage up/ one level. My stock level on the needle was in the middle. I removed the clip and moved it one level toward the "sharp needle like tip". (thanx Jered- if 6 was 9)
Jetting= 72.5
airbox= no change/ stock
---------------------------------------------------------------
Here's how to do it...
The carb is setting there where you left it. Now-
7. Look at the top of the carb. You'll see a throttle assembly with wire cables coming into and out of it. These wires dissappear into the body of the bike and end up connected to the twist grip of your handle bars.
Unscrew the 2 phillips screws that keep this connected to the carb.
Slowly/carefully pull the assembly upwards out of the top of the carb.
Don't touch the long needle to anything cause you don't want to damage the end of it.
This needle is your fuel needle or jet needle.
With needle nose plyers, unhook the tiny spring in the needle assembly from the throttle assembly. Lift up on the white plastic piece and remove it from the throttle assembly. Now use the needle nose to take out the pin from the object that looks like a small cylindar. (throttle valve)
Pull the needle out, noticing where the washer should be, and look at your donicle---- I mean needle!
We wanto to increase the flow of fuel, so we will "raise the needle" which actually means lowering the clip.Confused? If 6 was 9?
DO THIS! look where your clip is stock. Sarahs was in the 3rd or middle position of 5 possible stages.
We pulled out the tiny clip and moved it to the next stage toward the "sharp needle" end. This let's more gas flow! Just what we want.
Put it all back together, reversing what you just did and screw the throttle assembly back on the top of the carb.
8. Jetting- a lot of people have a lot of differnt opinions. Mechanics don't like to talk about it. When I called the shops, everybody played "stupid".
I called at least 30 different shops! scooter and motorbike. No help what-so-ever! One shop even said it was illegal to tell me anything.?.?
Just do this-
At the bottom of the carb is what looks like a bowl (the float chamber).
unscrew the 2 bottom screws and pull downward.
OOOOOps! Hope that cigerette was put out. Did you get gas all over you? good! Then you did it right!
Set the chamber or bowl down and look upwards into the bottom side of the carb.
You'll see a plastic "float". Don't touch it in any way! You don't want to take a chance of messing it up if you don't have to.
inside the "donut hole" shape you'll see 2 brass screws. These are your jets. This is waht allows gas to shoot through. We won't talk about theory here.
Using your screwdriver, unscrew the biggest one in the middle.
(It's the brass screw with a hole in the center- about 8mm wide side to side)
This is your main jet. Sarahs stock jet was a size "64".
replace this with whatever you are jetting to.
I could get into how to jet, but it's very complicated. Basically, you want the jet that will give you the most pull all the way through the high end section of the powerband.
After messing with 4 differnt jets, we found the best was a 72.5!
We were going to just drill the stock 64 jet, but I could'nt find anything to drill it out with. No shop would do it for me either. So we just played it safe and bought jets.
No shop in Portland carried the jet size I needed! The yamaha shops carried only bigger jets. The local Honda shop hooked me up the next day with a shipment from Idaho. Plus they were nicer to me!
You can also order on-line. try CYCLEWAREABLES or any other site that sells "slotted round head" mikuni jets. (part 100/604).
Replace your old jet with your new bigger size. Have somebody twist the throttle all the way "open" while you screw the new jet in just snuggly, not too tight.
Then you can release the throttle. Why?- I heard of a dirt biker who did this and ruined the end of his fuel needle. He had to buy a new one. It's just playing it safe!
Now you can put your float chamber back on. The hardest part is done!
9. Now recconect the carb to the manifold. remember to screw the clamp snuggly!
10. the fuel line to the carb & clip it.
11. Now put the airbox back on, clip it & screw it back on the tranny
12. Now you are ready to tune the carb.
If you have never done this before, I highly recomend you have somebody show you how. A brother, friend, neighbor, meth addict, whatever.
--- adjust idle
--- adjust mixture
you should be good to go. Before you put the body panels back on, I suggest you run it around the neighborhood for a while and check the plug to make sure you have the best heat range and mix.
Your plugs should be a mocha brown with some oil on the first 3 rings.
SEE THIS WEBSIT E IF YOU ARE NOT SURE:
www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/sparkplugs.html
Put on the body panels and you are finished amigo!!!!!!