PDA

View Full Version : Electrical problems?


Duece Bigelow
04-25-2006, 02:28 AM
My brother abandoned his scoot so I'm fixing it up

Battery is dead. Will it accept a charge if I give it 17V@1A?

All lights are dim until I throttle it..is this normal?

Turn signals don't seem to work properly. Stays off for 2sec or more than a quick 1/2 second blink unless I throttle "the sweet spot" at about 1/4 throttle. Than it seems to operate more evenly. Will dead battery cause this?

I downloaded and printed service manual with diagrams. Don't know when I'll get to look at the scoot though. With the magneto, it puts out AC voltage right? And from there to diodes for DC voltage? What's the out voltage at idle supposed to be? I can't find it in manual, only the voltage at 5K rpm.

Now how does the Autolube function? I can't really figure out whether the oil is burned in with the gas as a "normal" 2-cycle is or whether it's like a 4-stroke engine.

Lastly anyone know where to get a cheap gas cap. Southern Motorsports in Sandy wants $74 which (may or not be their fault) is ridiculous! _-_-_-

no user name
04-25-2006, 03:39 AM
My brother abandoned his scoot so I'm fixing it up

Battery is dead. Will it accept a charge if I give it 17V@1A?

All lights are dim until I throttle it..is this normal?

Turn signals don't seem to work properly. Stays off for 2sec or more than a quick 1/2 second blink unless I throttle "the sweet spot" at about 1/4 throttle. Than it seems to operate more evenly. Will dead battery cause this?

I downloaded and printed service manual with diagrams. Don't know when I'll get to look at the scoot though. With the magneto, it puts out AC voltage right? And from there to diodes for DC voltage? What's the out voltage at idle supposed to be? I can't find it in manual, only the voltage at 5K rpm.

Now how does the Autolube function? I can't really figure out whether the oil is burned in with the gas as a "normal" 2-cycle is or whether it's like a 4-stroke engine.

Lastly anyone know where to get a cheap gas cap. Southern Motorsports in Sandy wants $74 which (may or not be their fault) is ridiculous! _-_-_-


Dimming lights are normal, just depends on how much. The rest sounds like you're in need of a new battery. The oil is burned like a 2 stroke, thus all the smoke and smell (I personally can't get enough). If the Autolube functions, don't mess with it! Like your heart, not sure exactly how it does all what it does, just leave it alone and keep hoping it continues to do what it does.
Gas cap is a rip off but if you're alternative is to use a rag, $74 isn't so bad. Maybe you can find a nonlocking universal cap at a parts store fer das cheap.

sooznd
04-25-2006, 07:31 AM
there was a recent thread about the gas cap. You have some options, the TNG Venice gas cap will work and costs around $19 plus shipping, a Zuma gap (non-locking)--check on ebay--you can usually find one for sale.

http://www.provoscooter.com/vbull/showthread.php?t=5508

once you get this scooter running, you will have a blast. :)

VeniceRocket
04-25-2006, 07:32 AM
You have a bad battery for sure. You can tell your generator/alternator is working properly because you can have the "sweet spot" or where it generates enought amps to handel the load of the headlight and blinkers.

If you have a good battery your lights should not dim at all. A weak battery is indicated by slight dimming.

Keep looking around for used parts ect. for the gas cap. ebay and what not. Search the internet for alternate manufactures and you might suprise yourself. $74 dollars is excessive. I bet he only pays $40 for it then he has to put his mark up on it so it ends up to be higher.
The key is to shop around.

StepVino
04-25-2006, 07:53 AM
Hi Deuce, 17V 1A is a bit high at least the amps part.

You can use it safely if you put a 12v light bulb in series
with one of the leads from the charger. I'm guessing 10 watts
or higher bulb. When the bulb gets very dim, or goes out, the
battery is charged. I did this using a regular car battery charger.
Left it on overnight, and it worked fine.

When you're done charging, the manual says to keep the battery
disconnected, wait 30mins then check the voltage on the battery.
If it's 12.8v the battery is ok.

Venice might be correct on you needing a new one, although ours
does the same. Light is dim at idle, but electric start works fine.

As for the gas cap price, I'd take it as a sign to find somewhere else
to shop for your parts. Yamaha dealer price is $54.

StepVino
04-25-2006, 08:10 AM
Correction: 10 watts or lower bulb in series.

Amps x Volts = Watts.... 10Watts/17volts = about 0.6 amps.
That will be the highest charging current, and will decrese as the
battery charges up.

no user name
04-25-2006, 09:29 AM
If you have a good battery your lights should not dim at all. A weak battery is indicated by slight dimming.

I learn something everyday. I thought I read that the dimming light at idle was normal. Mine does that but shows no other indications of a bad battery. I know on cars it would mean trouble but not with scooters...better get a new one too I guess. If the battery goes dead, you can still kick it over though, right? Just no lights or signals?

scootertrash
04-25-2006, 09:38 AM
You don't have "electrical problems" You have a bad battery.

Slight dimming at idle is normal.

But if it saps the electical system to the point that your flashers don't work, work in slow-motion or all your lights dim each time the turnsignal flashes is not normal.

The best test of your battery is how well it cranks the electric starter.

Your bike will run with a weak battery but you can damage the charging system because it never gets any rest. It will always be working to try to charge up a defective battery that just won't take a charge.

Duece Bigelow
04-25-2006, 01:11 PM
thanks all for your input.

I managed to pull the battery (what a chore it is too) and it is dead. I'm assuming it's been dead for a while because if I checked the correct wires coming off the "charger" I'm getting max 11 volts with the battery plugged in..but I'm unsure if I have the throttle at 5K rpm. With throttle full it's only getting 5 volts. At idle 5volts. and barely off idle is 11v..Think i'll pop a new rectifier in to boot

I'll give the batt a slow charge, won't hurt to try - thanks for that current limiting circuit

Thanks for the gas cap stuff too because in further searching I did come across a post from 2003 .. not a whole lot of info about what Year of the TNG I'm guessing same year? But for $20 it's well worth a shot.

Oh and I get the oil deal now..it's just 2-cycle oil in its own reservoir instead of having to mix it each time..ingenius. I thought was like a 4 stroke engine that the oil was somehow circuilated thru cylinder and back into the res. DOH

sooznd
04-25-2006, 03:42 PM
Duece--contact Harry (see my link above to his post). He is a TNG dealer and can get you the right cap.

Zuma-Zuma
04-25-2006, 04:22 PM
Your battery, and headlights are not even connected. Its normal for the headlight to dim, as rpm's limit mag output. The rest of the lights are on battery power.

Duece Bigelow
04-27-2006, 07:06 PM
well replaced battery after I over charged the other one. Everything works great now..blinkers especially are normal, blinking the way I thought it should..and charge voltage is up to 14V too

I can't figure out why a charged battery makes a difference in charge voltage as the charge voltage has to be slightly higher than the battery voltage....but oh well it works :)

Thanks all agian for your help..oh and head lamp doesn't dim as much as it used to either

no user name
04-28-2006, 02:46 AM
Remember when I said I learn something everyday? I take it back...forget I said that.