Hello All. The Name is Chris. Just picked up an 01 Vino

[SomeDayPilot]

Hello All. The Name is Chris from Downtown Springfield Missouri. Sold my car to get out of debt. Now riding the bus... Just picked up an 01 Vino from my little sister!

2001 YJ50 Vino
9160 Miles
Abused...
$150
http://chris.bonta-kun.net/Gallery%20Script/rcache/6a7af687556205d07bf838151764d1ee.jpg

The motor is currently blown as per what the previous owner said. I havent tried to start it, but it has been sitting since Feb. She told me one of her friends took it for a 2 hour spin and didnt check the oil...

I work at a place called Batteries Plus. I decicded to check out the battery... and supprisingly, its still just fine. Build quallity=Battery not getting completly drained into Voltage reversal!

Plans, within the next couple months!
Stage 2 Performance Kit.
It all looks good/greek to me. Ive got a guy to get it going and do the build up for me. Once he gets it going, i will hone my skills and do maintenence and repairs on my own! I plan on keeping this lil guy forever!

Just stopping by to say hello. Im a forum guy and love using these as a utility of knowlidge for my passion! Hope to talk to you guys soon!

[Blackbomber]

What a great find! Did you actually only pay $150 for it? Don't be too quick to write off that motor yet. Obviously you want to mod it, but see what you have first. I have seen two strokes seize from lack of lubrication and run fine later. The piston expands to where it can no longer move in the bore. The rider shuts it down, checks the oil, reaiizes his or her mistake, and trucks it home assuming the top end is wiped. Sometimes it just needs to cool down, and it will run fine. Of course after letting it sit for weeks or months it will not want to start for other reasons, but the motor may still be salvageable. You will need to go through certain things no matter what, so do that before tearing into the motor. If it turns over (you have a kicker, so that is easy to test), do a compression test. If that looks good, then try to get it running as is. You have nothing to loose. There are plenty of posts on this forum on how to do all of this. You can even do a half baked compression test with your finger over the spark plug hole, if you don't want to invest in a tester.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

[SomeDayPilot]

ok, so i tried the kicker....Just Now... It seems to go over very easy... almost too easy... I can feel compression, but it is very very light on the kicker...

The other day, when i took that picture, after i rolled it out there, there was a small puddle of oil on the ground, that led me to believe there was a crack or something along those lines...

Ill bring the battery home tomarrow and give it a go to see what happens.

Unfortunatly where i live, there are no options to work on it here...

But im glad you pointed this out... it might not be completely bad like you said!

I will mod this thing. Im a rather big guy. and 50cc isnt going to do a whole lot with me on it...


...and yea... Paid $150 total for it!!! ,.,.dance.

[Tampa Ryder33]

nice price! now you need new tires, breaks, belt, variator, clutch, 70cc kit, carb, and a new pipe and you will have one sick vino

[SomeDayPilot]

Looking at this kit to begin with.
http://www.provoscooter.com/scooters/stage-two-performance-vino-2t.html

[Blackbomber]

Well given the clues, I'd venture a guess that your autolube system has a leak somewhere. I would pull the fan cover off, and check the supply line from the tank to the pump. It's pretty common for them to crack right under the clamp, and drip themselves dry. Given the age, I would replace all lines (fuel, oil supply / feed to carb, vaccum). Unless the vent and bowel drain lines are missing, you can leave them. This won't cost much, and is a good piece of mind. Many people will recommend ignoring the autolube system (or disabling via removing drive gear in pump) and pre mixing. I'm not going to preach my feelings here. There is plenty of good info on the pros and cons. Do the research and make your own decision. I will say that the case for premixing becomes stronger when you go to 70cc. Some use the autolube and premix. Again, do the research, and make the decision that you feel comfortable with. It's YOUR bike. Also, this bike should have a sensor for the autolube tank level. Find out why that is not working. If it is working, have your sister give her friend a smack for ignoring the light. Nix that. You stepped into a killer deal because of it. Buy your sister's friend a beer.

Kick resistance is a subjective matter, but you are not going to feel very much resistance through the kicker on a stock 49cc. Put a compression tester on it first. If your friend who is helping you does not have one, buy him one, and work it into his compensation. I think it's pretty important to monitor compression throughout the break in process, and as the bike ages, so I would want to check compression even after the rebuild.

I strongly recommend you get the bike running in it's current stage. I think it's quite possible. Even though you will enjoy modding it later (and lot's of people here seem very satisfied with your choice of kit) you need to know what you are starting out with. I have seen a few dirt bikes in my day that were run without proper air filtration. All that charge goes into the crankcase before it gets to your combustion chamber. I made the mistake of buying a KX80 thinking it just needed rings and piston only to find that the bottom end was shot. At the price you paid, there is no ammount of damage that could make the Vino a bad deal (unless you are paying dealer service dept labor rates, and even then....). I don't want to worry you. I'm only saying that if your budget can't handle more than the kit, you don't want to find out you have a bad crank later on. Better to install the 70cc bbk, and keep the stock pipe / carb/ trans for now than to have a really hot stage 2 sitting while you are saving for repair parts. Plus those little things Tampa mentioned (tires, brakes, belt etc. that you may need but are not included in the kit can add up fast. Not to mention fork seals, headset bearings. Various electrical gremlins (not likely on a Yamaha, but you never know). Plus, you will have a starting point to know the benefits of your mods. Since you have basically written off your top end anyhow, you really can't screw it up at this point.

Good luck, and have fun.

[SomeDayPilot]

You know what BB... i was wavering on the thought of doing all that to begin with... my original idea was to get the athena big bore kit, and later buy parts... but i think you gave me some knowlidge thats going to help me a little... I may on thanksgiving take this bike to my Other friends house we are doing TG at and take it apart and look for these things first!

Thanks!

[Blackbomber]

Awesome. Between now and then, assemble the following supplies:

1 Gal of gasoline. Besides having fresh fuel to start the bike, you will want to flush out the tank. Kerosene is even better if you have it.

Several feet of fuel line (1/4" or 7/32" will work for both fuel and oil supply). Get the thin stuff, not the reinforced Harley/automotive reinforced line. If you get that, you will need all new clamps. In a pinch, automotive washer fluid / vaccum line will work, but you will need to change it out since it gets brittle with fuel. If you can't do this, at least cut the ends off the existing line, and replace (after checking for leaks). The most common place for lines to fail is at the ends, unless they aren't properly routed. I'm not sure about the sizes for the oil feed (pump to carb) and vaccum (carb to petcock) lines. Maybe some searches here can clue you in.

1 can of carb cleaner spray. If you need to rebuild the carb, Autozone sells a 1 gallon Berryman carb dip. We'll assume for the moment that won't be necesary.

Tag wire (from a manilla tag, this is thin aluminum wire) for cleaning out carb orifices / jets. If old, un-Stabil'ed fuel dried up in the carb, this will be invaluble.

If your friend doesn't have a compressor, consider "canned air" from Staples. Not a requirement, but nice to have.

If you want to pull the top end, get a base gasket and exhaust gasket. I personally have formagasket for my base, and a #215 Viton (the reddish orange) O-ring for my exhaust. If you go the formagasket route (and I'm not recommending or discouraging it) you will need to allow the stuff to cure, and won't be riding it that night.

Download and perhaps print this: http://www.provoscooter.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=manuals:yamaha_vino_yj50_service_m anual.pdf
That is the service manual for your scoot courtesey of the Provoscooter Wiki.

A digital camera, Sharpie marker, masking tape (use the marker and tape to ID wire, hose connections) and some old tupperware or baggies for your removed parts. In the old days, we used to make diagrams of wiring, lines, etc. Now it's easier just to take pics of everything as it's being disassembled. Even if you have a photographic memory, it's nice to document your work. Pride of ownership when you tell people you got this scooter for one tenth of it's orignal price, and made it roadworthy with your own two hands.

Riding gear as appropriate for your weather and laws, and preference (if your local laws give you the latitude of preference). If you get that baby started, you will want to hit the roads. Keep in mind that there will be drivers of questionable sobriety on the roads that day. Use good judgement before hitting the tarmac.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes. One thing I want to mention is that riding the bike stock may give you some insight as to what level of tune you really need. In my case, I'm pretty sure that just a 70cc, and trans tuning is what's best for me. I'm fortunate to live in an area where stock automatic 49's don't need to be registered / insured. The last thing I want to do is draw more attention to myself by putting on a racy looking/sounding pipe (since I'm already traveling faster than the law allows for "moped" status). Originally I thought I needed the full stage 2 to get the speeds I want, but now I realize I really don't require much more than stock. It could go either way. Remember that your bike has drum brakes front and rear. Even if you can squeeze 60mph out of it, you may not want to go that fast for safety reasons. I'm not trying to impose my preferences on you. I only want to stress that what you think you need might change after riding the stock bike for a while. If you haven't already seen it, Provo is doing a nice project Vino right now, using the Airsal T6R (single ring) top end. It's going to be a rocket for sure: http://provoscooter.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17839&highlight=project+vino
Another user on this site, csfieldmusic, is in the process of modding a Jog (drivetrain same as your Vino) to the point that he busted his ass good on it. More speed than I'm looking for, but good reading and insightful: http://provoscooter.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17826&highlight=project+vino

[SomeDayPilot]

What kind of oil do i need... (bearing in mind I have walmart and autozone.)

[jprestonian]

What kind of oil do i need... (bearing in mind I have walmart and autozone.)
Any AT rated 2-stroke oil will do at this point. A half-pint bottle of Pennzoil 2-stroke oil for air-cooled engines (AT rated) will cost less than $3 at most auto parts places, and if you've got a leak, might as well leak out the cheap stuff rather than Motul or Ipone synthoil.
.

[Blackbomber]

Oh, I see I forgot the most important ingredient! 10w30 motor oil for the air filter element and the final drive. For the autolube (or to premix) use a good synthetic two stroke oil meant for motorcycles. The stuff Walmart sells is for outboard boat engines, which have differing requrements. I'm not sure what Autozone carries. I use Spectro lubricants exclusively in my bikes, and Total (Elf) in my car. Spectro is a family owned local company in Brookfield, CT, and I know the grandson of one of the owners. You can get by with a cheaper two stroke lube to see if you can get the motor running, but since you will need the good stuff when you go to 70cc. Provo carries Motul brand lubricants, which are very very good, but they aren't shipping until next week. If Autozone and Walmart don't have the right stuff, you can buy the weedwhacker oil for thursday, and mail order the Motul. After you verify the oil lines, and fill the resivior, you will need to bleed the system. There are instructions for that on page 3-9 of the service manual I linked. What I like to do with a two stroke that is new to me is to pull the plug, get piston at or near BDC via the kicker, and spray a bit of fogging oil into the bore. Then move the piston to near TDC, and with the aircleaner off, spray some into the carb throat (throttle wide open). Then pull the oil feed line off the carb, and kick and kick and kick and kick until you see some oil dribbling out of the line. It won't be much. Leave the plug out for this. When you do start it, it will smoke like a ******* for a minute or two. Another method, is to premix a small ammount of fuel, and check with it running. When you have verified the autoluber is functioning, you can just add straight gasoline to the tank to dilute the mix. Before adding any fuel to the tank, though, remove it, drain it, and swish a few ounces of fresh fuel around in there. Repeat a few times, then be sure to remove petcock, and pull the screen filter, and do it one more time. On mine, the screen was in the bung on the tank, not attached to the petcock itself. I used a tap to extract it. If you don't have a tap, find a screw just big enough to bite into the nylon, screw it in a few turns, and pull out with pliers. Don't forget to totally flush the carb.

[Blackbomber]

JPrestonian answered while I was typing my response. He is correct. No need to waste money on the good stuff right now. I'm a bit of a lube snob, I guess.

[SomeDayPilot]

Once i get this lil guy in tip top, it will only get the best. For right now...Cheap!

[hworkman]

Good job on getting a great deal!

[SomeDayPilot]

Thanks!

Im hoping this comes together easy. I cant... or should say, not allowed to do anything at my loft... and i dont have anywhere to really work on this myself... Its going to be tricky... but i believe this will become an amazing toy/utility!

[Blackbomber]

Chris: All I can say about that is that I'm glad you got a Yamaha. They are stone reliable in stock form, and if you do the tuning right, that should not change too much when you mod it. I have a Chinese Vino knock off. It was an awesome deal for the price (not as good as your deal, though), but the China bikes are clearly not as well engineered / constructed as the Japanese / Taiwanese or Italian. My Aprilia was a work of art, and my father had both a 50 (4t) and 125 Vino. They are nice bikes for sure.

[SomeDayPilot]

Manual Downloaded, Printed, and put into a binder!!!!
Thank you Provoscooter!!!

[SomeDayPilot]

....and didnt get around to anything yesterday... :S

[Vino A Go Go]

Welcome to the site. Great deal on the scoot! I have an '03 Vino 50 and ride the heck out of it...like blackbomber says they are bulletproof if they are cared for.
Get yourself a quality cable lock and start looking for places to secure it. Run the cable lock through the rear tire and around anything permanent. Remember these scoots only weigh about 165lbs so don't lock to any small posts.hehe. If your storing it outside get a cover..out of sight-out of mind. Scooter theft is common now days. Don't want to sound like a downer but new riders aren't always aware of scoot theft...see here: http://scoot.net/stolen/
Hope you get it going soon.

[SomeDayPilot]

I've got a crazy chain lock on it right now, and it's under a tarp. Though it still doesn't seem safe... Hehe, deff worried about that...
Should be up and running this December!

[SomeDayPilot]

Sooooo we have 22 PSI... Not Good... The piston Pin Clip came unset and was driven like that for a while wearing out the cylinder wall...
The Exhaust weighs about 15 more LBS than it should... Sooooooo:

My List...

70CC Upgrade
Exhaust


My New Question.
Carb... With the 70cc upgrade, do i need to get a bigger carb? Or do i need to keep my carb and up rate the jets? If i do get a new carb, 19mm or 21mm? What setup do you recommend? What kind of exhaust Do you recommend? Airsal, Malossi, or Athena 70cc upgrade?

[Blackbomber]

Congrats on finding the problem. Now comes the decisions on how to proceed. You will receive many replies to your question suggesting exactly the best setup, and why. I wouldn't listen to any of them, unless they ask you first what you are trying to achieve. In my case, I got to ride the bike stock, and had a pretty good idea how fast I needed to go to have a safe and enjoyable riding experiance. Then I factored in things such as cost, ridability, reliablility, longevity, and noise / appearance. During this time (over one month) I did all the reading I could. I joined this Forum, and a few others. I did many searches, and asked many questions. The vast variety of components available makes it impractical to suggest a one size fits all upgrade path. Provoscooter simplifies the task with their stage 2 kit (which is further customizable). This might be the way to go if you are in a hurry, since all the parts have been tested together, and a lot of people agree that the Airsal T6 is a really good "bang for the buck" cylinder. It's better performing than a "sport" cylinder (at a competitive price) while not being as high strung or expensive as the European midrace and race components. I'm not recommending the T6, mind you. I had strongly considered it for myself. Since it seems you are set on upgrading your pipe, it may be a good match for you.

In my case, I need to keep a stock (or stock appearing / sounding) pipe. So performance greater than a cast iron "sport" type cylinder would be lost since a stock pipe won't allow me to rev within the higher performing cylinder's intended powerband. Not a problem for me, since I know what I want, and many others have already achieved it using the stock pipe. I certainly won't have a "fast" scooter (by the standard of most "tuners"), but one that I can live with. The Malossi sport cylinder I selected is on order, and I intend to start a build thread once I receive it. I'm not trying to sell you on the Malossi brand, or a sport cylinder either. Since I made reference to my method of deciding, I thought it only fair to divulge my choices.

I won't address the carb question, since I think you have other considerations to settle on before you can decide that. Remember that you are using this as transportation, so you want a reliable setup that also delivers decent fuel economy, if possible. Unless you WANT to manually control your choke, consider a choice that will allow you to retain your electric solinoid. 19mm Areche body sold by provo, and included in their stage 2 kit lets you use your existing solinoid, and will probably satisfy 80+% of the practical choices open to you. Remember, you are not building a racebike. This is fun and practical transportation. In my case, since I'm keeping my stock pipe, I'm also keeping my stock carb and airbox, and upjetting accordingly. Again, I'm not recommending this, but it is certainly acceptable for my mild soon to be 70cc, and plays heavily into the budget aspect of my requirements. In your case, I think you have more room to play with as far as cost goes. Your Vino is worth quite a bit more than my TN'G, so it will be much easier to recoup your investment when the time comes to sell. Also, let me suggest that if you keep your stock carb, do not change or even modify your stock airbox. It will become a nightmare to tune, much louder, and if you are skilled and lucky, you will end up not LOOSING power. Stock airbox and carb work very well together.

As far as pipes go, I do have an oppinion on that: Several commonly available expansion pipes are available in a chrome plated finish, as well as painted or clearcoated natural. Besides the natural giving a more performance oriented appearance, I suggest against chrome for the following additional reason: For the time being, you are storing the bike outside, and under a cover. While all choices will eventually rust under those conditions, I think the chrome will be more trouble in the long run. The natural pipe will be very easy to scuff up and paint. In fact, you might want to do that right off the bat. I refreshed my stock pipe using Rustolem High Heat black about one month ago. I have ridden in several rains since then, and it still looks like the day I did it. I know that's not a very long term test case, but it's the best I can do. I also did my Beetle header using Duplicolor ceramic high heat exhaust paint, and that thing STILL looks like the day I painted it. I glass beaded the pipe when it was brand new - never installed to remove the factory coating, then spray bombed it with the ceramic. It has been on the car for six months parked outside.

[SomeDayPilot]

ok, well here is my current plan.

I dont want to race this scooter.

Im looking at the 70cc kit that will last me the longest. Be it the Malossi Cast iron set, or the Athena or Airsal. Im wanting the 70 for the sole reason that i am a rather large guy! Ive ridden a 49 before and had a hard time maintaining 30mph. Thats scary concidering the roads i will be on have a limit of 30 and people commonly got 35-40... I dont need to go faster than that though...

The carb i would love to keep stock if i can. There seems to be a lot involved with uprating that, including a choke, as well as a new throttle cable. A nightmare for sure.
I would like a little insight on Jetting this propperly. We'll say that im sticking with the stock carb... ...furthermore I need to locate the Plastic manifold that goes from the airbox to the carb, as it is cracked. Any suggestions?

The pipe, I dont want a race pipe, and i reaaaaaallllyyyy dont want a chrome one at all. I dont like the way it looks, nor do i ever ever ever want to spend time polishing it. Not my cup of tea! In the long run, The scooter wont have a stitch of chrome or anything shiney on it... Matte Black Finish on everything shiny! hehe Back to the Exhaust. I was looking at the Tecnigas Next R Expansion Pipe, but its out of stock, also looked at the Leo Vince ZX Exhaust Pipe.... Out of stock as well... Any thoughts on the Ruima Performance Exhaust - Minarelli Engine??? Or is this for the Manarelli Engine as it states? (is that what my engine is?)


...hehe and as far as selling it... i dont plan on it! :D

[Blackbomber]

Your engine is Minarelli. Yamaha is a licenced manufacturer of the Minarelli design, and they are made in Taiwan to exact Minarelli specifications. I'd email questions@provoscooter.com, and find out when they are getting their stock replenished. I'm sure they don't want to loose sales, so they may already have some on order. The Ruima interests me, because it appears stock. Once I have everything on my setup dialed in, I'm going to look into that type of exhaust, and see if there is any benefit. Other similar units are made by NCY (looks identical to the Ruima), the SP3 by Leo Vince, and Stage 6 (Athena) also makes one. I have heard of another called the V8. Not sure of who makes that. If you are thinking about a sport cylinder, you don't necesarilly need to make the pipe decision now, especially with the stock carb. It will mean dialing in the jetting twice, as well as any variator / clutch tuning you do. That doesn't bother me, as I consider that twice the experiance. I have an Athena Speed Variator, and yellow clutch springs on my bike now. I'm running 40 grams of roller weight (total) and it accelerates slower than it should. Boy is it smooth, though. I'm holding off on buying lighter rollers because they cost money. I want to see where I'm at with the torque of the 70cc Malossi sport. I'll probably wind up getting a roller tuning kit anyway, but that's my excuse for now. I'm drilling my own jets, so that's not a concern. I'm working my way up (smaller to larger) because of this. If you buy a kit (and you might need to buy another when and if you switch carbs) the recommended way to tune is top down (go a few sizes larger, and work your way down). There is no magic recipie for jetting, and what works well one day might be off the next if the temperature and humidity changes drastically. Expect to at least change your needle setting between summer and winter. Sorry to say, but you are just going to need to test and tune. I would say go two sizes up, break it in on that, then do plug chops and see which way you need to go. No easy way around it, although a larger carb will be more forgiving (from what I have learned).

That pipe you need (airbox to carb inlet) is available separately. It's very common for them to get brittle. Provo can special order any Yamaha part if you get them a part # so that is an option if you don't have or want to use the dealer. In my case, I repaired my own using an end casting to center section boot for a VW type 1 dual port intake manifold. I cut off the brittle part, and glued the VW piece on using Goop. I should do a write up on this for those who need it. I happened to have these laying around. You might find something else that works, also. The second pic is a used boot attached to my airbox. The first one is of a new boot installed on my motor (it is the only red thing in the pic). If you decide to go this route, and have to buy one, get rubber, not poly. The fit on the carb mouth is a bit small, but the rubber stretches to fit. I chose to use my orignal band clamp, rather than the spring clamp from the orignal boot.

I think you are being very realistic with what you want. Do searches on 70cc longevity. I respect OverRev's oppinion, and although he is a racer, he recommends the Malossi cast iron sport to people who want longevity. That, in addition to previous experiance with the Malossi brand, helped make my decision for me. Of course there are people out there who have thousands of trouble free miles on Nickasil alloy bores and single ring pistons. I don't doubt that. But if you ever overheat, and sieze the piston, the chances of recovery are much greater with cast iron, as I understand.

[jprestonian]

Also google Stadium Yamaha for Yamaha and Kymco parts. Good, fast, cheap.
.

[SomeDayPilot]

oh wow... Great resource!

[Blackbomber]

Yeah, thanks. Not only does that give all the P/N's but now I see the prices. At less than $10 bucks, new is the way to go. In my case I have no regrets since I had the boot already, and was up and running the next day (had to let the Goop cure).

[CLS447]

What are you going to pilot ?

[zeonsredcomet]

Well i have to say you got a super sweat deal on a vino and if i could find one like that i would grab it in an instant.

[Blackbomber]

That's what I thought. Zeon, you will probably think I'm loosing my mind, but I passed on that $500 bugeye I told you about. Took another two weeks to finally sell. I just have TOO many unfinished projects, and I am trying to break the cycle of starting new projects and forgetting about others. The scoot kind of took over the time I was spending on my Beetle, but that was intentional - I was getting burned out on the Beetle. But enough is enough. Not to mention I just tallied up the cost of my Milano today, and realized the $250.00 fixer upper has so far cost me over $800, and there is more to spend. I would probably go nuts on the Zuma, and go more of a midrace setup. Not right now. I thought about just buying it, and storing it in my basement for the future, but in the time I was contemplating that, someone else snapped it up. Good for him or her.

[SomeDayPilot]

What are you going to pilot ?
Eventually Aircraft...

For now... My computer!