kymco Agility 125 4t spark plug cable

[jmoec1]

I ordered the NGK Racing Cable from the parts store here at Provoscooter, SKU #17.08054. This item which is sold under the subcategory: Kymco –Agility 125 4t WILL NOT FIT OR WORK on the stated scooter. The problem is that the cable is set up for a solid post spark plug, not a resistor type plug which is installed in this scooter. The owner manual states that Champion plug #P-RZ9HC is too utilized in this scooter. This is a resistor plug. I have crossed referenced this plug and am now using an NGK plug # CR7HSA. I picked up this plug at PEP Boys; it is not an item they stock in store, had to order them. They come next day and cost $2.09. I hope this is useful information.

[j~scoot]

I'm a little confused by your post. Did you get the cable to work? I believe you figured everything out but there are some confusing bits in your post that i wish to clarify.
The problem is that the cable is set up for a solid post spark plug, not a resistor type plug which is installed in this scooter.
These are not mutually exclusive characteristics. A plug is either solid post terminal or threaded terminal. Most (if not all) NGK plugs come with a small cap that allows them to be either (as shown below). Also a plug is either resistor type or non-resistor type. So you can have a solid post resistor plug.

This cable is a universal racing cable and works on all models of scooters. That doesn't mean it will work without changing anything else; like any modification other things may need to be adjusted. Also note that it is possible that since the cap in the NGK cable is resistor, that you may need to switch to a non-resistor plug. I haven't messed around with this to know but I would stick with a stock resistor type plug unless for some reason you feel you aren't getting enough spark. The resistance in the cap is small enough (5kΩ) to where you should be fine.

http://www.provoscooter.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=66&pictureid=422

[g~scoot]

NGK part numbers give you all the details about what type of plug you have. Here is a link to the NGK part number details and how to decode them.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/tech/design_symbols_plugs.pdf

For instance, the plug you got was a CR7HSA. Here is how to interpret that:
C - 10mm Thread Diameter
R - Resistor Type
7 - Heat Rating (lower number hotter the plug, meaning it cant take the heat)
H - 12.7mm (1.2") Thread Reach
S - Standard 2.6mm center electrode
A - Special Design

NGK makes plugs with 4 types of terminal ends: Clip, Removable, Solid, and Stud. I'm not sure what clip is as I've never seen one of these types of plugs. Removable is a threaded, or stud terminal with a removable cap (like that pictured in j~scoots post) to change from sold to stud type. Solid terminal is a connection like when the cap is on but it can't be removed.

Another way to get the details about your plug is on the NGK website or a resellers site like NGK.com (http://www.ngk.com) just put in the plug number and it will pull up all the details about it for you. Here is what it says for your plug:

CR7HSA:
10mm Thread, 12.7mm (1/2") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Stud Terminal, .027" (0.7mm) Gap, Heat Range 7. NOTE: Does not include terminal nut, if necessary, order part #067606-0051

I'm not really sure what the special design is all about. I can't find any info on it from NGK. Perhaps someone else can shed some light on it. As far as I know any plug that has the same stats as what your cylinder head, and electrical system requires you can use it.

[jmoec1]

Your right, my terminology is incorrect; the plug installed is a threaded terminal, resistor type plug. No, I've not been able to get the cable to work as of yet. I was not aware that there is a cap that you can install onto the plug to make it a solid post terminal. I definitely do not want to change the entire plug, but I will try to find a cap to convert my threaded post terminal to a solid post terminal. Thanks for the help.

[j~scoot]

We can send you out a cap if you want. Just let us know, I'm sure the product description can be a little confusing. I should probably update it with the info I provided in the thread.

[harry]

as soon as someone got the idea to put a radio in a car the "r" type
plug was born....
all the "resistor" does is keep your neighbors tv from having a white line across it , or the radio making a tick, tick every time you fire up your scooter. it makes no matter to the engine performance.

oilyhans

[jmoec1]

I called NGK and ordered a dozen of those caps. I'm just waiting for them to come in. I'll post some results after I get the cable installed. Once again thanks for the help.

[g~scoot]

Sounds good. I'm glad we could help and get things working for you.

[jmoec1]

OK, so this is it. I would highly recommend that if this is a mod that you are interested in doing, that you buy the NGK Cable Splicer/Connector. This item makes the mod very easy to do. You will also need the terminal cap for the spark plug. Once you have all the parts it’s an easy 30 minute mod. Start with removing the under-the-seat-storage-container, its four bolts. Once that’s out of the way, remove the front panel that covers the oil-cooler, and the 3 bolts that hold the luggage rack. Next, remove the 4 screws that hold the rear body panels. Now you should have full access to the engine compartment. Disconnect the leads for the ignition coil, and remove the screw that holds it in place. Remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug. At this point, I installed a new plug gapped at .07mm with the terminal cap installed. I cut the ignition coil spark plug wire 4 inches down from where the wire comes out of the sealed ignition coil. Follow the instructions on the NGK Cable splicer. Connect the splicer with the new NGK racing spark plug wire. Reinstall the ignition coil, and button everything up. Start up your scooter before you put all the panels back on. I had to adjust the carb idle a little. It was idling high. As you will see in the picture, since I had the engine compartment accessible I replace most of the fuel lines and vacuum hoses. If that’s something you’re interested in doing all the hose are 3/16 inner diameter. Hit me up if you need help or have questions about this. Hope this helps!

[g~scoot]

Nice instructions. I'm glad that everything worked out.

[j~scoot]

Yeah, thanks for posting back with the mini-how-to. Just an additional note, the cable splicer is necessary for almost all scooters. Most coils are sealed and won't let you attach the cable directly.

[King KravaN]

damn provoscooter you always out of stock of the stuff i need had to go else where to get this splicer. got the NGK racing cables from you but had to go somewhere else to get the splicer

[g~scoot]

Sorry about that. We actually got them back in stock today. The inventory will be updated soon. We got a lot of the parts that are out of stock in actually. Sorry about not having it when you needed it. We do our best to keep things in stock but it gets hard sometimes in the winter with meeting order minimums and things being slow and what not. but things are picking up and we are getting all our initial orders in. Anyways, sorry we weren't about to help you out. Hopefully this won't deter you from coming back to us the next time you need something.