Vino Floorboard

[Vino A Go Go]

Since I had the scoot pulled apart to install the 70cc I fugured I would try some of that Plasti coat paint that FS and others mentioned. I got a can of black from Home Depot. I taped off the runners with 2" 3M tape and trimmed it with a razor knife. After two coats it was late so I added the third one the next day but to my surprise the spray nozzle was having fits and was spraying drops onto the board. I said screw it and proceeded to give it a nice "texured look". I acually think it looks better because it hides some scratches. NOTE: If you try this be sure to retrace the edges of the tape with your knife before you peel it off otherwise you'll pull paint runners up off the deck.

I added more holes to the bottom of the case in front and on the rear side to match the other holes done earlier. I hope that is enough to cool things...find out soon enough.

I got the 70cc running but I think my jets are too big. I have 90,87.5, 85 and they all bog down even after adjusting the airscrew. Stock airbox & TeiKei carb. Running premix now at 4%. Figure I'll order three more sizes lower and see what I get. Stay tuned.

[j~scoot]

So i just stumbled upon this post while cruising around the forum. Nice work yet again Vino! Did you do the holes in the transmission cover? Phenomenal job. Also the floorboard fits your scooter perfectly. Can i get you to create a photo album for your scooter and also add it to the scooter garage? everyone needs to see this thing and i need to give you 10 stars. :)

[Vino A Go Go]

Hey thanks J-scoot,

yeah I drilled the holes...really nervous work. Does the job so far.

I'll work on the garage building...always thought to make one and just haven't got around to it.

The plasti coat paint hasn't held up on the boards. It's rubber texture promotes peeling like a bad sunburn. Here is my solution minus the black bedliner spray I intend to have added. That stuff should stay on the side rails and back where my heels rub by the seat.

I bought the aluminum diamondplate for $5 and just cut a cardboard template, traced it to the metal and cut it out with a 21tpi metal blade in my jig saw. Drilling the holes for the new 2" long bolts was critical...screw that up and you have to start over.

[j~scoot]

You must have a steady hand. The aluminum diamondplate looks great. I can't get over those holes in the tranny cover though. They look amazing.

[Vino A Go Go]

Thanks, the trick was to use masking tape to mark the holes and help hold the drill bit steady. Overlap the tape and use an edge as a centerline to measure from. Mark in pen where they should line up and use really nice drill bits. I have some Sears bits that have a smaller self starter tip so they won't drift when you first start. Be sure and wear goggles..those bits of aluminum are nasty to eyes.

[LaVinoMi]

youre not worried about getting dirt and other crap in there?

[Vino A Go Go]

I was debating that for some time. I read a lot of what others had tried and found that many have cut huge holes along the bottom or in the most extreme case just left the rear case bearing over the back pulley. I have found that the benefit of cooling and extending the life of the springs and belt outweigh the risk of dirt. The case would build up rubber dust from the belt, but now it stays really clean. I don't ever find any road sand at all and I also ride in the rain with no belt slippage problems. I don't plan to go "x-cross" or mud boggin with it so it'll be fine.:D

I would go for it...it really does help cut the heat...done..

[LaVinoMi]

would you recommend changing the gear oil more frequently after you do that?

[Vino A Go Go]

No issues with the oil as the cover only shields the belt and pulleys...all dry space. The gear oil actually is housed in the other half of the metal housing where the actual gears and output shafts link up to the rear pulley. If anything I would guess the cooler temps might help extend the life of the gear oil but probably not by much.

[FreakyBeanie]

To help reduce the risk of getting crap in the casing i would put something like either a foam or even clue speaker type grills on the inside.

[Vino A Go Go]

I was thinking of a stainless mesh screen to add but was afraid of what could happen if it came loose while screaming down the road...there would be skid marks in a few places! I was also thinking the screen might catch some of the rubber belt dust like a dryer screen. I honestly haven't had a bit of trouble and find the case to be quite clean when I pull it off to tweak on the vari.

[FreakyBeanie]

Yeah that makes sence...i guess it all depends where you ride...I got the BW's and i go off road here and there so i would need something. I would use some metal epoxy to affix what i would put to filter the holes..

[vinonick]

where did you get your wheel and tire combo?? i love the white walls, but they look a little larger than stock, no?
and i havent been able to find any cool wheels. where did you get them? thanks!

[Vino A Go Go]

Freaky, I'm sure if you rough up the inside to give the epoxy something to hold it should be fine...just clean off any oil beforehand.

Vinonick, I painted the wheels myself using rattle can Rustoleum paint. Holding up really well. You have to use masking tape and paper over the hub. It takes patience becuase of the amount of taping and waiting for the coats to harden before doing the second color. The tires are bigger. The are Shinko WW 3x10 on the front and 3.5x10 on the rear. You have to adjust/lengthen your stand and should get a little longer/beefier shock to replace the tiny stock one if you weigh >180lbs. Search my early posts and you'll find write ups about the wheels and shocks.

[zeonsredcomet]

this is great but im so skittish on drilling the tranny cover i really have wanted to do it though. I have cleaned belt dust out of my tranny recently though man o man it was sooty looking!!!

[BlueCorsa]

Does it make the scooter louder?

[Vino A Go Go]

No louder with the holes on the cover. At idle you can hear it a little bit but it's not really loud or noticable. At speed you can't tell at all.

The trick to accurate hole locations is to use masking tape or some other thick tape to help grip the bit and serves to mark off the drill points. Lay one strip of tape down around the curve using the edge of the tape as a straight edge to mark the holes centerline. It also helps to use those two stage bits that have a smaller starter tip-try Sears. If you try something like my design start with the larger center holes then move out with smaller holes doing each side then swap the bits. Be carefull when marking out the center drill points (don't make them all equal spaced) since each hole would end up looking farther apart as they get smaller.

Once you mark out one half, use another piece of tape along the marks and mark off the point onto the tape then just swing the tape arount to the other half and transfer the marks to that half-that will ensure they match.

If you just want to go drill happy just watch the backside and avoid points where there is support metal panels, bearing, or starter spring. Ive seen pics of covers that had whole panels cut out or even just covering the vari. Too much for me cause I just know I would catch something in the belt.