marylandmark
12-21-2004, 07:33 PM
3.5 Installing Variator... Place 3.8g rollers into variator, place bushings on variator and place back plate onto varitator... Install the metal pin (that the variator rides on) and place belt over (final install) shaft... Then install the finned variator pulley and kick start gear! That's it for the Variator...
Why those rollers? Do you think changing them will improve performance? What I am getting at is this going to save the "eternal weight changing with a regular variator" issues or is it going to be the same old thing- try these weights, then these weights, then a combo of the 2 and so on...
7. Follow the instructions for assembling the rear pulley... Basically, there are 6 slot cut into the torque driver... 3 are angled more than the others... It says to use the most angled but my scooter stalled with that set up... so I went with the lesser of angles... Place the 3 pins into the holes in torque driver... Grease the torque driver and place the spring cap in place...
So.. It says to go with the most angled ones but you went with the lesser angled ones because you stalled? Any inkling into why this happened and what you gave up in doing this- as in top end or quickness or __? (the more angled ones give more top end or vice-versa?)
10. place the belt into the rear pulley and then assemble the rear pulley into the case.
I think I read this is a O/R specific belt and you don't have to get the kevlar belt? If I am wrong does it come with the new belt or does your "old" kevlar belt work with it?
edit- I see a title of one of your pics says "old vs new belt" so guessing a new belt comes with it, O/R specific?
I have more tuning to do once spring hits... but it definately felt like some grunt off the line... I think I'll have no issues with wheelies... even with the gears installed!
Gears? Have to install taller gears? Come with the kit or the ones you ordered before and able to use them again with the O/R?
Bottom line-
Does this mean the gears will give you top end and this O/R will make sure the lower end grunt is not taken away?
More ?????'s to follow I am sure...
CONGRATS DUDE!!!
(pics not working when I pull up the how-to)
Why those rollers? Do you think changing them will improve performance? What I am getting at is this going to save the "eternal weight changing with a regular variator" issues or is it going to be the same old thing- try these weights, then these weights, then a combo of the 2 and so on...
7. Follow the instructions for assembling the rear pulley... Basically, there are 6 slot cut into the torque driver... 3 are angled more than the others... It says to use the most angled but my scooter stalled with that set up... so I went with the lesser of angles... Place the 3 pins into the holes in torque driver... Grease the torque driver and place the spring cap in place...
So.. It says to go with the most angled ones but you went with the lesser angled ones because you stalled? Any inkling into why this happened and what you gave up in doing this- as in top end or quickness or __? (the more angled ones give more top end or vice-versa?)
10. place the belt into the rear pulley and then assemble the rear pulley into the case.
I think I read this is a O/R specific belt and you don't have to get the kevlar belt? If I am wrong does it come with the new belt or does your "old" kevlar belt work with it?
edit- I see a title of one of your pics says "old vs new belt" so guessing a new belt comes with it, O/R specific?
I have more tuning to do once spring hits... but it definately felt like some grunt off the line... I think I'll have no issues with wheelies... even with the gears installed!
Gears? Have to install taller gears? Come with the kit or the ones you ordered before and able to use them again with the O/R?
Bottom line-
Does this mean the gears will give you top end and this O/R will make sure the lower end grunt is not taken away?
More ?????'s to follow I am sure...
CONGRATS DUDE!!!
(pics not working when I pull up the how-to)